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Those 4.2L F250s are strong 250s and actually have about 50 more HP each than the old 3.3L F225s. Plus more torque. Even with the gear ratio difference, your new motors ought to reach higher RPM with those props. you need another thousand RPM. I would have guessed 15 pitch props for those...

Perhaps this attachment will help. It appears that the bunks should either be spaced 13” or 22.5” either side of the keel depending on your preference. If you’re keeping your boat on a lift, the center of gravity information will also be helpful...

I have mine angled slightly down at the rear. My thinking was that this would give me a picture of the bottom before I reached it. As a fisherman, this made sense to me, but it probably doesn’t make a whole lot of difference. I also have an Airmar thru hull transducer mounted about five feet...

is this something I need to change periodically? Seriously, I didn’t even know I had such a thing until three days ago.

I’m pretty sure that reservoir is under the aft berth.

Yes. I would never have associated it with the thruster. I didn’t see it on the bow thruster schematic in the Marlin manual.

While prepping the boat for Idalia, I noticed there’s a small fluid reservoir inside the frontmost compartment under the forward berth. Anybody know what it’s for?

I think a custom refinishing with whatever color or colors that you want can be done less expensively than the premium you’ll pay to get the upgraded color from the factory. But I’ll still stick with black.

Should I expect any problems running my Fischer-Panda and AC while running at cruise speed? It seems like folks do, but I’ve never tried it.

God created boats and the devil created trailers.

Don’t forget to increase the height of your bunk supports. It looks like you’re either resting on the cross beam or dangerously close. When you widen the bunk spacing an inch and then adjust the bunk angles to fit the contour of your hull, the keel is going to drop two or three inches lower than...

I’ve used Startron in several Yamahas and now my Suzukis and haven’t yet experienced a fuel problem. I run my motors about 150 hours yearly and use 10% ethanol exclusively.

I used black acrylic on my Marlin.

After Christmas, I replaced the MFDs and redid the dash on my Marlin.

The actuator switch itself is somewhat prone to failure. New ones are about $80.

They’ll do that depending on the air temperature and humidity.

It looks like your old Yamaha gauges are in decent shape. Don’t throw them away or let your Suzuki rigger keep them. They’ll sell quickly on Hull Truth or this site. They should be worth a few hundred dollars if they’re clean and still work properly.

I have an Airmar thru-hull transducer paired with one Garmin 1243xsv and a Garmin GT 56 UHD transom mounted transducer paired to a second 1243xsv. Both hold bottom well at 45MPH, but the Garmin transducer does it best.

If you have a 12v cordless drill or some other tool that uses a 12v power pack, you can plug your wires into the battery receptacles. The polarity is usually clearly marked. You may not want to operate electronics this way for a long period, but it’s a convenient way to test things out.

There’s plenty of room. I replaced my old Garmin 5212 MFDs with new Garmin 1243xsv units. The new units fit more easily than the old ones and have 12.1 inch touchscreens.