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Its a 30 A breaker and an ELCI or a GFCI. It is protecting the inlet power to the boat. I'm pretty sure all ELCIs are 2 pole breakers because they must break both the Hot (black) and Neutral(white). They must be within 10 ft of the shore power plug. The OP picture looks like a single pole...

Take cover off to get model. Look on Blue Seas site for ELCI/GFCI breaker

Sometimes drains can be unscrewed from inside the cooler. Then you can just bend the hose towards you, pull off the hose barb, install new hose, line up in hole and screw inside cooler

Thats a drain. its not below the waterline. But it is at the waterline so don't go cheap... You can use several of the available hoses Series 141, 148, 135. Have you looked at your deck drain hoses to your scuppers yet? If that cooler drain looks that bad, your scupper hoses must be scary.

Looks like all the heavy loads are on the Port bank. Windlass, thruster, power assist pump. They will run batteries down quickly if the port motor isn't running and charging. Assuming you are running the motors when using these.. I would check the port motor to see if it is charging

its a pdf not an image? jpeg, png Here's a screenshot png

define "Electronics" VHF(s), MFD(s), sonar, radar? How many batteries? No 2500w stereo? No refrigerator? No AC? No pumps running? No Lights? generally, the "port battery" only starts the port engine and runs one bilge pump and maybe the stereo memory. Generally, the House runs on the stbd...

heheh East coast...twice a day.... That slip looks like its for a 17 whaler or a Carolina skiff I don't think I would do that with a 28 ft deepV. You will topple over and your water inlets will mud up.

Hoping is not an action plan;) There is a 6" piehole over each end of the tank. Look at it. I think you should remove whatever deck piece is covering the tank and inspect. Its just screws and silicone. Not rocket science.

Home Depot, Lowes

there is just enough room for an R3 in the "pocket". It has to be bumped right up to the bend up on the rear of the tab. I don't use the trim tabs and dont really care about them but I think having more zinc in the water can't hurt. FYI, the R3 pair has a nut imbedded in one side and just a...

Mine have a zinc R3 on them. Like others, I started using 1/2 the set on each tab.(mount on top) They always get eaten up. For some reason they always come loose and spin by the end of they season. They only have one screw in the center. I think Im goign to drill another hole and use a bar with...

Yes they did that on some models/years. It gives you a flat spot so you don't have to use the plastic fairing and you don't have to cut the angle.

I have a 2000 265 also. I do the fishing you described. A lot of it... I have a GarminGT51M side/down scan thru hull mounted between the water inlets. I replaced a B744 that was there. Its works WAY better at speed than the Transom mount GT21 that I had before. But the Transom Mount was very...

If it has SW washdown and /or a livewell then it has one or two holes with bronze (or plastic) strainers in the bottom of the boat near the stern. The valve(s) are connected to the strainer inside the boat. If you can't see them thru pieholes then you need to unscrew the deck and cut the...

that might be why you have no water. It's going to be in the deck at the stern of the boat. Is the boat in the water? If the boat is in the water, don't open the valve. Get it on a trailer and check things out. Often Grady put a 6" piehole for access to valves. Often there was a knob with...

looking back at your picture. Looks like a 2" hole. You probably had a B744 with the speed paddle wheel. The new B765 and B785 models will fit the hole. Shortens your project....

follow the hose from the inlet valve

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I think ideally you should have a sidescan xducer on the transom for bottom fishing and use a B175HW for trolling /drifting for stripers & tuna. A B175HW alone is not going to be good for bottom fishing. you plan on blackfishing and fluking. Get a sidescan xducer.