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I snapped both sides of mine running through what I later found out was a hurricane. Had them welded and broke one side again running through rough water. This time I had an extra support sleeve welded on and it has held great every since.

You will need to remove the livewell to get to the valve and connections. Luckily its not that hard. Go ahead and replace the other side and anything else that might need attention while you are down there.

Parthery and Jim are correct. I have a Yamaha 17m on my F225 and I hit 6000 rpms and 42 mph.

FMT is now RDS. See what they quote you.

I think the company that made the original tanks is still in business. Maybe do a search and see if their name comes up. I would think they would be a great option since they already know all the specs. Edit: Found them - http://www.rdsaluminum.com

This is the ball valve I was referring to.

I think we might be talking about different valves. The one I was refering to is the Apollo bronze ball valve. No way I would replace that with the Forespar unit in the link. I'm not eben sure how that would work. But, my boat has separate thru hulls for the livewell and the raw water...

Yes, the ball valve should just unscrew from the thru hull. Hopefully the two haven't fused into one block of metal!

I put mine next to the standard transom mounted transducer and it works very well. Is there a reason why you want to mount it on the bracket instead?

You are probably going to have to remove the live well to work on the seacock. Luckily it's not that hard (several screws and two hose clamps). I've had to get down there several times for the live well pump and the replace the rusted rod connectors to the seacocks. If you can't move the seacock...

I have the HDS 5 combo that I use for sonar and an HDS 7 that I use as my chartplotter. The 5 works great as a sonar. I had been using an LCX 26 for both charting and sonar. For a short time I used the 5 for both, but the screen was just too small (I only used it that way for a short time...

Anything with oxcylic acid will remove the rust stains easily. I normally use Rust Aid from Home Depot or Barkeepers Friend from the grocery store (HD sometimes has it). Others use toilet bowl cleaner.

In order to get to the livewell pump you have to remove the livewell itself. It really isn't that hard. The toughest part is disconnecting the intake and discharge tubes. You can access the tubes thru the starboard access under the seat. Once the livewell is out you will have great access to...

My on-board charger is under the starboard stern seat. Both of my batteries are under the port seat. It has worked out very well so far. Easy to get to and easy to monitor.

204 is right. Every compartment outside the cabin on the Seafarer in designed to drain onto the deck or overboard. There is no below deck fishbox option. Why would you want one? There are three boxes below the seats you can use. Unless you are catching really big fish!

Sorry, I keep forgetting different years of 228's have different tank set ups. My 228 has the aux gas tank fore, fresh water tank mid and the main gas tank aft. So if the transducer was aft of the fresh water tank but fore of the bulkhead, it would also be fore of the main gas tank. Assuming...

Walker, where did you get the bulbs?

So it is aft of the fresh water tank and fore of the gas tank? How in the world did you get it there? More importantly, why? It's not going to get a very good reading at speed, I wouldn't think. If that is where you have it, and where you want to keep it, you're gonna have to drill the hole.

This one is very similar to the one I have. I think mine ran around $100. http://www.canvastraining.com/sunshop/i ... tail&p=411

I am constantly having to replace snaps. I went out and got a heavy duty snap tool. It makes those nice rolled edges you are looking for. I don't remember where I got it, but it looks like a cross between an large aluminum c-clamp and a pair of vice grips. I'll see if I can find a picture of...