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My thought was to adjust the sacrificial zinc torque tab on the aft of the anti-cavitation plate. It sounds to me like that's not adjusted properly and you're experiencing prop-walk. You're then compensating by having the motor slightly turned to starboard to go straight, which is causing the...

1998 would be correct. My 1995 hull was replaced in 1998 under warranty. It went back to Grady with a deck hatch and aluminum tank. It came back with a solid deck, poly tank, and a bow pulpit. So I may have the only 1995 hull with sealed in poly tank.

I also think it's number 4... 1. What you're experiencing is not normal 2. There's no way an improper trim would put such a load on the motor that you'd drop ~1500 RPM from your rated max. 3. You're not over-propped with a 14.25x17 prop on that motor with that hull 4. The only thing left is...

Haha... For sure. At the time we were staying at a dock that was a 45 minute, 5 mph harbor cruise to the open ocean. Neither the thought of a 1.5 hour round trip to and from the dock, potentially up to 6 times, to try to determine the bad plug, or trying to change a spark plug out in the open...

That's good info... now it sounds like a stuck or flaky oil level sensor. I don't remember the details on how it works, but it's connected to the cap on the main tank with the wires.

Yep, I'm in agreement with Doc. 4000 RPM WOT is way too low and is about the top end drop I'd expect with a cylinder not firing... Could be something simple like a bad spark plug or loose spark plug wire. FWIW, I have a different motor, but many years ago I had just had the motor serviced which...

From what you state, I'm leaning towards what the others have said... the inline filter in the remote tank is partially clogged, so that the main tank will fill, but not fast enough to keep up at high RPM's when the motor is consuming more oil. You shouldn't need to start the engine and apply...

My first thought was that was a (polite?) way of saying they don't have the capabilities of servicing older motors. Unlike the auto-makers you named, Grady-White is not manufacturing the motors they put on their boats, so getting Yamaha certification (and any other motor certification) is...

It concerns me that screws "rotted out" to the point where water is coming in. That seems like it would be some kind of galvanic corrosion issue, which may have to be addressed. Is the boat wet slipped or on a trailer? In any event, your hull is going to be wet, so I would pull the thru-hull...

Thinking way outside the box here... But what if you cut your existing hinge into quarters and put 2 piece each on the corners of the glass, and fill the middle section with a matching U-channel extrusion without the extra C shaped piece (assuming you could find matching U channel. At least in...

Or the opposite... it's not engaging when it needs it. But I think a lot of his issues will go away if he tries starting with the throttle advanced.

The rubber circle on the throttle arm is the button that disengages the shift cable so you can advance the throttle in neutral. Push and hold it in while pushing the throttle lever forward and you'll stay in neutral and be able to start the motor with the throttle advanced.

Manual choke on the motor is operated by pulling the slider bar (or whatever it's called) out from the bottom cowling, starting the motor with the throttle advanced, then quickly running back to the motor to push the choke back in before the motor bogs down, then quickly running back to the helm...

boslaw, what fuel are you running? I've been running 87 octane E10 with Ring-Free ever since E10 became the only fuel readily available in CA about 10 years ago, but switched over to 91 octane E10 at the end of last year. There was a noticeable difference in the idle smoothness with the 91...

Same for me. No smoke on restart, and low idle only occurs after restart. If I don't shut the motor off, it will idle nicely at 600-700 RPM all day without missing a beat. After a restart, it wants to idle at 400-500 RPM and stalls out with a sneeze. I've got a mechanical choke on the motor and...

In my case, it coughs enough to disengage the starter Bendix almost immediately upon turning the key but then also immediately quits. This seems a bit different than boslaw's problem. So whether we have the same problem, and he just has a more severe case than I do, or we have different...

Interesting. I have the same idling problem. It idles too low (400 RPM) after a semi-warm start and will stall. So I have to keep the throttle advanced in neutral and be quick when pulling the throttle back and then forward to shift into gear to keep it running.

Based on my experience with my similar problem, I think this is going down the right path with a vapor lock issue.

I'm watching this thread because my carbed SWS has been doing this for years and has every Yamaha certified mechanic stumped. Motor starts right up on the first try in about 2 seconds when cold, even when sitting for 6 months (fully mechanically choked). But semi-warm, it's a PITA to get started...

There is some glass in the edges, but it looks like chopper gun glass fibers, not woven. I just went through a gelcoat repair on the hatch a couple months ago.