Search results

Kinda not on topic... the boat I grew up with had an old OMC electric shift outdrive. The exhaust on that drive was routed out through the trim tab on the anti-cavitation plate, so the prop always had clean water to bite into. You want to talk about power in reverse... that boat had it. The...

Eric, I don't think you'll have much success keeping anchovies alive in the under-step fish boxes. I tried it once, and the 'chovies all ended up getting sucked into the overflow and clogging it up. This was in the factory plumbed livewell under the port side step in my 208 Adventure. I only...

I'm somewhat in the same situation as you with roughly the same vintage hull and motor, having thought about repowering. Here are my thoughts. Sticking with Yamaha, I think the best motor option would be the 4-cylinder Yamaha F200 four stroke. Its weight is about 60 lbs heavier than my current...

To confirm, I'd pull the old one out of your tank and measure its length before buying anything. But, this is the one I installed... 10.5 inch length. Item# Item Name SSS/SSL SSS/SSL Fuel or Water Level Sensors (4 - 60 in.) (Length - 10.5 in.)...

My motor, though slightly older vintage, always idles around 800-900 RPM while out of the water and 600-700 while in the water. As Dennis stated above, the back pressure on the exhaust underwater seems to smooth things out. Assuming you have a 17 inch pitch prop, idling in gear @600 RPM is going...

Welcome! It's nice to see fellow Grady owners in Dana Point! I'd go with a custom cockpit cover similar to what Parthery is showing. Price out here won't been too much different. They are a lot of good independent canvas guys around, though I've still got the same cover we had made 15 years...

Google search "OMC auxiliary motor bracket" and you'll find a few good photos of the pieces you're missing. Looks like you're missing the motor mounting plate and the 2 angle brackets that hold it onto the piece you have. Also looks like the motor mounting plate has an aluminum cap on it...

That's odd. I've got 2 Group 27 batteries in boxes under the starboard seat. Group 27's are slightly larger than Group 24's, so you should be able to fit them...?

It's never a bad idea to get the motor and boat surveyed before making a purchase, but from what you've described, I don't think it's the motor causing the slow speeds. Are you able to reach the rated RPM at WOT? My guess is either rough bottom paint or heavy hull (due to how much stuff is on...

Yes, it should be faster than 28 mph, but probably not by too much. At 4800 RPM, I'd expect my boat to be 32-33 mph. I don't think it has anything do to with the engine though. Unless the drive train is slipping when it shouldn't be, the prop is going to be turning an RPM directly related to...

Ha! No, it's totally random as far as I can tell. I don't think we ever have 4 knots of current at the launch ramp, even on extreme tide swings. Unless, of course, we're having a tsunami event ;-) https://youtu.be/ropC7NzcVlI https://youtu.be/ropC7NzcVlI

FWIW, the pitot tube on my boat always reads 1-2 knots slower than the GPS says when on plane and always reads 1-2 knots faster when at trolling speed. My favorite is when it says we are doing 4 knots when tied to the dock. It's been that way for the 16 years I've had the boat, and I've long...

If you want them to look the same color as tungsten-halogen lamps, then the color temp will be 2800-3200 Kelvin (K). If you want them to look the same color as daylight, then the color temp will be 5000-7000 K. If you want them to look like those blueish xenon car headlamps, then the color...

Unless they changed it in 1997, there is a 6" inspection port inside the cuddy specifically for access to the rigging tubes. When installing, I'd use the old transducer cable to pull a long piece of parachute or tuna cord through the tube. Make it long enough so you can pull from either...

I've got a 1995 hull with a 1995 Yamaha SWS 175hp on it that weighs in at 419 lbs. We routinely have 250 lbs of water in a 32 gallon bait tank mounted on deck just in front of the splashwell and 600 lbs of humans fishing off the back of the boat. We never get water on the deck through the...

The biggest issue I see is that, at least on mine, the compartment is completely sealed underneath and does not drain into the bilge. So you'd have to either sponge out any water that got into the compartment after every trip or drill and seal drain holes through the bulkhead into the bilge.

It's nice to have a space that's warm and dry. Makes those early morning crossings a bit more tolerable!

Re: 208 Adventure Fresh Water Tank - Access Panel question I've done it. It's fairly simple. The hardest part was removing the old sealant. I resealed with GE Silicone II in the almond color which is a very close match to the Grady gelcoat color. The compartment the water tank would be in is...

Welcome to the club. I've got the 1995 version of that motor. It's been very solid and reliable, though it's a bit thirstier than the newer technology. We've been very religious with Ring-Free and Yamalube, and at 1700 hours, so far, so good (knock on wood). The factory livewell under the port...

FWIW, a lot of people have problems with the cap leaking on the oil tank under the cowling. We put a zip-tie around the cap to stop the leaking when the motor is tilted up for storage. It's not perfect, but we only get an ounce or two of oil that drips out over a few months.