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Sure! It's all pretty easy to do, but I know what you mean. Sometimes you just need that little push in the right direction and then CLICK... it all makes sense. Do you like spaghetti? That will make sense soon........... :)

A good penetrating oil will absoultey wich uphill. But I wouldn't expect it to work magic - and certainly not within a day. It may take at least a few applications over a few days to even have a chance of working. Can also try... -- Tapping the top with a hammer to "shock" the corroded bond...

Fishing... I always thought it would be way too awkward to get the spring off without removing the arm. Good for you! Adding onto what Hookup said - that allows to switch to a J-hook connector so can buy replacement blades anywhere

Oh, that stinks. The other thing to do (which is still quite easy) is to use the wire color code as that will tell you what each circuit is. EDIT: I see Hookup already did the majority of your homework for you

Sometimes this info is in the owner's manual. Check there. If you don't have the paper copy, you can get it on GW's website.

:) Stbd side.. yes, I completely agree when an outdrive/outboard is mounted direct to the transom. However in this case, the OB is mounted on a bracket so it's quite a distance away (forward) from the prop disturbance. So in this case, the port side is just as good.

If it's only doing it on tight turns, you don't need an extra 5". That would be too much. Check what hole they're mounted on and also look at the anti-vent plates compared to the hull. FYI... it's "ventilation" not cavitation. They're two entirely different things. Yes, Seasick, I'm not...

Oh, is that what that transducer that he has is? I guess his installation directions would probably tell him :) "Wrong side" - that's funny. It's funny because I KNOW that you are being sarcastic (joking) with that statement!

Big... it sounds like you might be getting lot's of information from various internet searching that doesn't always apply to your situation. Focus on the installation manual that comes with the unit for the most accurate info. For example, the "15 inches" statement does not apply in any way to...

From evertything you wrote (which was a good description), it sounds like you're in the water too deep. You don't need the stern to actually float... just sort of barely begin to rock a bit. Change out the carpet to plastic and you'll make sliding on/off a whole lot easier.

Good deal! I once rebuilt my trim/tilt unit for my 250HP (internals, not just simply the seals). Once. Never again. I would gladly pay someone to do it!

Doesn't matter. Use a socket extension/wooden dowel/etc and a hammer. Did you previously spray it with something like PB Blaster?

It's not a "bolt" - it's simply a single, large pin that goes all the way through from port to stbd. Push/tap it through.

Lucky, do you have tabs and use them? Consider adding larger tabs - that will absolutely make a difference and it's also low on the $$ scale. When increasing tab size, span is more important than chord. Point of clarification... you do not have a displacement hull. You have a planing hull...

You'll want to add more detail... Max RPM's? Prop size? Hull clean/dirty? Even just a light layer of slime will cause a major loss in performance.

I hear what you're saying and can appreciate that. But I think that's really starting to split hairs - and I don't mean that to come across as crass - it is not intended to. I guess we're I'm going with this is that, yes, "on paper" there are considerations - but in reality those two engines...

Yeah, that way you know for sure and don't have to trust us boneheads that may/may not know how to use a tape measure :D

I agree. That would be my thought process, as well. I've run into enough engines that don't pee (or pee well) on a hose but pee perfectly in the water to not worry about it. Even the same model/size engines exhibit different characteristics. But I also understand why you asked as it "just...

Yeah, but it's still all a moot point given the insignificant difference. Think about it - there's no way the transom is built to such tight tolerances and manufacturing exactness to where a measly 27lbs is going to break the transom. It's a fair question - but there's better places to put...

Through the flush port doesn't always provide enough water through the circuit to force water out of the per hole. In reality, a peeing is not necessary at all for a healthy engine. It's hit or miss - some engines do, some don't, some do sometimes but not other times. It's totally a...