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Agreed. However, only the 3.3 liter Yamaha v6s can be checked for exhaust corrosion by dropping the lower unit. 4 cylinder 150-200s require pulling the power head. At 200 hours, I wouldn't sweat it. The vast majority don't have this issue and only the engineers at Yamaha for sure know why.

I don't live in Jersey, but have used it once for a 1.5 mile tow. No issues. I have not ever heard of a complaint on this forum or THT. I would think progressive has agreements with the big towing companies.

Looks like you better buy it before someone else does!

I wouldn't be too worried about the seals. I would be concerned about corrosion. Specifically in the thermostat housings. Check it before you make any offers. It can be a deal breaker. The other item to consider updating at some point will be the counter balancers. You can read up on that one...

I'm curious. How do you know your fuel consumption will be 20% lower at that rpm? Depending on how bad you you want the 350s, you could counter balance the other end of the boat with sand or water in buckets that get removed before you head out.

As great as it might be to have the extra HP, you might find the juice isn't worth the squeeze! That looks like a lot of weight for the back of a 30ft cc.

Like we tell everyone considering a bigger engine(s), put at least the amount of weight from the bigger engines in the back of the boat - water, sand, human, etc and see how she sits and handles. Keep in mind the actual weight will be the difference plus a couple people aft. Or, to play it safe...

Mbuna, why do you desire the 250s over the 200s? The additional weight of the engines and larger gear cases will likely not net you more than 2-3 mph on the top end for most brands. Merc 250s might net you 4-5. Fuel economy will be worse with a V6 or V8 over any i4. A properly set up 275 with...

Looks like your expectations are realistic for what you are getting into. As long as the transom doesn't have excessive flex under load, you may be able to run the boat for a long while yet. However, if that crack goes beyond the gel coat, I personally would be looking for a rebuild sooner...

No. While it isn't terrible yet, a rebuild to some degree will be needed in the future. The crack on the back is the most troubling IMO.

Are you talking beeswax from a toilet bowl ring or something else?

Impressively efficient, expensive, but way cheaper than buying another boat. Keep us posted if you go for it.

I've used pliers before, but thought it was a little rough on the insulation. I didn't know if a glove would be thick enough to prevent leakage or arcing thru the pores of the material.

I've been zapped more than once from a plug wire. Slow learner I guess. What's the preferred method to pull wires on a running engine and not get zapped?

Time and money can accomplish just about anything, but it doesn't mean it is time and money we'll spent. I don't think the 275 was ever offered with a genset. I would find a boat that came from the factory with a genset and add a/c, or just find one with both.

Hopefully that's the end of it. But if it isn't, you'll know where else to look.

For me, on more than one occasion a multimeter has shown good voltage or continuity. After banging my head into the wall I eventually discovered (like others here have mentioned) the connections weren't clean enough to carry current. On one particular occasion I would have bet the farm that the...

I'll add this as a great material option. Corrugated plastic. It looks like cardboard, but is plastic. It is used for outdoor signs staked into the ground. Tape would easily stick to it and it doesn't absorb water. According to what I've read, one of the great benefiys of HPT is that it leaves...

I can see how that would work for a CC, but do tell how that works for a WA or DC?

Hull preservation tape. That's a new one to me. I need to get some. Thanks Dennis!