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The only filter is what you see there on the outdrive. It would be extremely rare for a boat of this size to have had a previous owner install an inline strainer.

#2... I edited and added the word "hard" as I forgot that, initially. Bilge pumps... factory.... depends on the model and the year. If you had a second bilge pump from the factory, there would be another exit hole in the hull. Yes, that's a raw water cooled engine, not a closed system. So...

1) I take it this is your first boat? The one on the outside is your garboard drain plug. You can decide if you want to plug it, but... if you don't... how will you keep the ocean from funneling into your boat? :) The interior is simply a passageway between compartments - again your call...

That's the only answer needed :)

No, that can't happen. I don't know what you mean by "bilge is behind outboard encapsulated" - that doesn't make sense. If enough water comes in to get the gunwales almost to the waterline as he mentioned, then there would also be water completely filling the bilge. Look under your motor well.

No, the way I described it is OEM. The floor is too low (compared to the waterline) to allow for the more typical drain setup. My mother has the same boat - I'm very familiar with it

On this boat, though, it is different. There are no hoses to connect deck drains to the scuppers. The "deck drain" is simply IN the transom with the scuppers on the other side (think: motor well drain). The bilge is also an open "pit" underneath the motor well (although it has a 3" or 4"...

Still doesn't make sense, though - at least based on how you are writing things. Go look at your boat - there's no way for that to happen without water getting into the bilge. Water would have to be in the bilge FIRST in order to get the scuppers underwater. And once the scuppers were...

Yes, it will increase expense. The options will be limited to putting it on a truck or hoping to find a hot shotter with his own trailer that will work for your boat. Or... take a few weeks off work and splash it

Squidder, from your experience, does the hydrodipping withstand general bumps and scrapes without peeling off?

Try Uship dot com If it has a trailer, it will be less - look for a "hot shot" shipper

The impact damage doesn't necessarily concern me if... if it's been there a while and you had someone knowledgeable check it out. I believe you mentioned that you have already checked those boxes? Hours (or unknown hours) do not concern me. I would, if it was me, get compression numbers. I...

Yeah, I'm kinda struggling to think of something that looks like true wood and can be CUT and still look good. Anything "composite" that I can think of will have an obvious "fake" edge to it once cut - which will look like it belongs in one of Jeff Foxworthy's "You might be a redneck if..."...

That's not a bad idea to look around at others. I wouldn't give any thought to the "holding value" idea, though. At this price range, it is what it is and the price will likely still be the same in 5 years - regardless of brand. For example, I know of a solid '95 Trophy walkaround in my area...

How wre the bellows? That's a pretty good impact damage there. And it's obvoius someone attempted a half-butted cover-up repair. Note I said "cover up" as there really was no true "repair" done here. The question, of course, is whether or not those cracks are superficial and only in the...

Gotcha. I used Plasteak (or maybe it was Plasdeck) a long time ago on a windlass refit install (this boat never had one). I really like it because it had the best true look/feel to real wood that I could find. Nice stuff. However, it's thin and meant to be used more like flooring. It's also...

Sure! Can you clarify what you're asking regarding seal/exits bow? I'm not sure what that means. I/O's can definitely go a long, long time - easily a couple thousand hours if cared for... minus "crap happens" of course :)

If the ones you're looking at are halfway decent - go for it. I don't think you can do wrong at that price as long you don't need to spend many hours and $$ doing a floor/stringer rebuild. So check those out well. Since the OB has a solid transom, that helps to alleviate the ridiculous...

I think the answers to your question are largely based on what you want it to look like in the end. Meaning, it could be as simple as using PVC or HDPE, white plastic board.

I'm not following. The bilge can't be dry if the boat sank so far as to be almost at the gunwales. The scuppers aren't the problem. They are above the water line - essentially, water can come and go through that as it pleases with no issues. And... wait a minute... is this a joke? This was...