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Nah... I am going to go out on a limb and say that pretty much any of today's units that are compatible with your MFD & GPS would be just fine. My 306 Canyon has a RAYMARINE AP (everything on the boat is RM). The AP works just fine.

My fishing tools all last many years. Lots of soap and water followed by drying. Bait net: AFTCO Gold Series (mine is going on 7 years) https://www.aftco.com/products/gold-series-bait-nets?variant=32696113397865

Location?

OP - ALERT! ALERT! ALERT! GEMLUX is having a Black Friday sale.......

OP Does you 306 have a windlass and access hatch in the center of the bow like my 2018 306 does? I ask, because if it does, then I would consider using "0" degree rod holders on each side of the access hatch. I think zero-degree would work well, because it will be very easy to drop a rod in...

gotta be at least 5x running time

My circa 2018 seats are great. I think it comes down to cost of new seats (very dependent on seats selected) versus replacing the cushions along with how long do you plan to keep the boat

100 - 150 hours per year of running time...

Hi, Not at all silly. No different than buying a boat without things and them adding them. It's a lot easier to remove things, than add 'em. 1 - when you go to sell it, the next buyer may want them. 2 - you could sell them right away and be done with it.... The only thing I wouldn't want...

P.S. My boat is in the water thru 10/05. If you want to come to Gloucester, I would be happy to demo them for you.

The electronics on my boat are circa 2018. They are all RAYMARINE. AXION PRO MFD with LightHouse charts, CPT-S transducer, autopilot & wireless remote (control head looks similar to the current P70Rs), QUANTUM RADAR, FLIR and Ray73 VHF They are all very user friendly from an interface...

Fill them (see note) with a good filler or 'glass & resin, leave a dimple for gel coat or plan to drill down an 1/8", then mix up gel coat and "paint" the gel coat in/on with a good quality artist's brush. Take your time and don't make it worse by trying to make it perfect. Keep in mind you...

1 - I would 5200 in some stainless t-nuts underneath the "mounting flange" on the deck that aline with the exiting holes on the hatch. 2 - I would clean the perimiter edge of the opeing and the peremiter edge of the hatch really well. 3 - I would screw down the hatch with quality stainless...

This sort of thing is right up my alley. If you post some pictures, I and others could come up with some ideas.

Hi, Folks.... Check out my photo of the pump. At/on the top of the pump, on the right it appears there are wires going into the pump (looks normal). THEN...look at the bottom of the pump....there appears to be some sort of electronic device (see red wires behind it) that perhaps is the valve...

I would suggest disconnecting the hose near the wiper to see if water is making it that far. If it is, then the sprayer is clogged. If it isn't then the issue is further upstream.

ok.... here goes it.. 1. The fresh water switch must be "ON". 2. The strainer must be clean. 3. The hose must not be kinked nor squished by the spring on the wiper arm. 4. The tiny holes on the sprayer must not be plugged up. Some pics...

Do you have a raw water head?

I will try to remember to check tosee exactly how mine operates and take some pics.

BTW...the fresh water pump needs to be "ON"