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Thanks Barbender, Looking at things from that perspective, it is entirely possible that a guy could just wind up with an expensive funny-shaped anchor. The fact that I don't have one and the possibility it could end up being a real hair-pulling outcome makes me think I should take notice of the...

No point to doing that in my mind.

Is that banging at idle in water and in gear or at idle on the muffs out of gear?

That is something I've been wrestling with too. Since my last post here, i found 2 similar boats one with a 2015 300 yamaha 4.2 liter and another with twin 115 yamaha 4 strokes so it lessened my urge to go after those smokers.

blynch, steveditt and deepwater, and Wild blue, .....thanks for chiming in. I was hoping I would hear from actual owners to get some first hand info. Thanks. That helps. I have a large Marina/Dealer that sold them and still works on them so I have some backup.

I have been boatless for a while now and I am starting to look around. Some of them have the discontinued G2 motors from Evinrude. If you are running one, give me the scoop. First, are they noisy at cruise, do they smoke you out, are they hard to work on, do they troll well? How is the corrosion...

The anti-syphon valve could be stuck closed. Not too uncommon on an older boat, especially if it has been sitting for an extended period.

This statement in your post is not relevant unless your keel is also level. Again, the anti-ventilation plate must be "parallel" with the keel. Hold the aluminum angle under the keel and hold it up tight while sliding it back past the anti-vent plate. Then trim the motor up or down until it is...

I have always understood that a good rule of thumb for a starting set-up is, on a standard transom the anti-ventilation plate should be 1/2 to 3/4 inch above the keel/transom junction, when the anti-vent plate is parallel with the keel. For a stepped transom such as you show in your pictures...

This is another nice cleat. https://www.schoellhorn-albrecht.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/Bollards-and-Dock-Cleats/Dock-Cleats/SA_S1168-8.pdf

Ignore my previous post. I thought we were talking about the bracket to transom mating. [When I pulled the access plate, there was no silicone/sealant under it. No water in there other then condensation, should I apply sealant to to plate when finished?] My 2004 228 had the bracket like that...

Don't assume that the threaded holes in the lower bracket holes is 1/2" x 13 tpi , just because the nuts on the top bolts are that size. It could be that the top holes were threaded at one time and the threads were damaged so the bracket was drilled out and 1/2 inch bolts installed. You may have...

Lucky, Since you went first cabin with that tremendous upgrade, I'm sure you will want a wiper system to match. If you want to be the coolest kid on the block, you could go with straight line wipers like the big boats do. https://www.kent-marine.com/en/1662/wynn-marine-straight-line-wipers.html...

Impressive.

Back in the years when I still worked, we sometimes had instruments, lighted switches, compasses and such in the wheelhouse of our tugs that were too bright. Depending on the layout of the helm the level of brightness was very hard on the skipper. We would often change out the 12v bulbs with 24v...

The drain could very possibly be restricted by insect activity like mud daubers, spiders and such. Run something like a rigid fish-tape up the hose from the outside first and you may feel the restriction. If you can break it up then you may be able to flush it clean by using a garden hose...

I agree. Ideally the Nav/anchor would be powered separate from all the pumps, lights and dimmers and so-forth, so if there is a problem with that system the Nav/anchor can continue on with a separate steady fused feed from the major feed wires for the helm fuse panel.

Well, my first thought is that if it has hot water, there is no reason to heat it again. Next I would remove the garboard plug and rebed it properly, remove the rod holders and seal the exposed wood with resin. That is if they are still using wood in the gunnels. Same thing on the splashwell drains.

The battery is exactly where you want to ground it. Don't pick up a ground at a location that is in a daisy chain of connections. If you want a good steady dependable fuel gauge reading, use a dedicated wire directly to the battery.

This solves a lot of your headaches....... https://www.lonestarmarine.com.au/shop/gx-series-anchor-winches/gx/gx4/