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Take it to your dealer and trade it:cool:

I think the keys to those are generic and not specific to your boat. Perhaps call a dealer and see if you can borrow one. As long as it’s for that brand lock it should open it.

Instead of adding the hydraulic steering boost pump the dealer quoted initially, I opted to upgrade the engine to digital electronic steering, so no hydraulic steering. Hard to steer both directions indicates a different problem than prop torque in only one direction. Perhaps unhook the motor...

I had a Sea Hunt with F250 and regular Sea Star hydraulic steering that over 4,000 rpm took some effort to steer to port and would easily steer to starboard. I chalked it up to prop steer and lived with it. I did try moving the lower unit anode fin around and it helped a bit, but it still took...

Smaller diameter wheels for the trailer.

The FP genny I had on a Back Cove had an underwater exhaust. Not sure if that system was standard or optional, but it cut the noise and smell quite effectively. Perhaps research to see if your genny has it and/or add it.

In the photo of your boat there are 3 SS screws that are in the underside of the cross bar, facing up. Perhaps those were for the female portion of the slider. Just guessing.…

Looks like that may be the type that the curtain has a male “slider” that slides in to female slots that are attached to your hard top.

Around here LaPortes is favored being local. Won’t be cheap, though.

When you are installing the glass in to the rubber channel, soap is your friend. Lube up both the inside of the rubber channel and the edge of the glass your inserting.

Sea Star is a common brand. They also now have electric steering which should eliminate pull altogether.

Not bad for the thing you touch the most. My guess is it starts out as a stainless steel casting, so you need a tool and foundry. Lots of polishing after that, possible machining of the hub taper and rubber insert pockets. speaking of the insert, need those, so another tool, molding and...

My guess is there’s a zipper on the underside, probably near the flap, but just a guess.

For the most part it came through here last night. Gusts to 70, quite a few tornado warnings, lost power early a.m. for a few hours. Tide was higher than the recent king tides due to southeast wind blowing water up the rivers, but no intrusive flooding. So, just a big mess to clean up. I talked...

Have you looked here? I’ve purchased a few things and quality is fine. https://gradygear.geigershops.com/

Maybe try Taylor Made.

It may seem inconsequential, but if the tabs are retracted and the controller doesn’t get the signal that one and/or both tabs are fully retracted it keeps the pump running until it times out, creating unnecessary wear and tear. I had it happen to my boat early this season when even though both...

Here’s a video and it’s on a Grady!

You may need to calibrate the lights. I had to do that. There’s a simple procedure you can find on YT. Offhand, press two buttons simultaneously to put it in calibration mode, then move the tabs to full down position, then full up position. The lights then are coordinated to the actual tab position.

To give you an example that Kirk is referring to. Make sure you leave room for the protective covers for each device. I gave this dimensioned template to New Wire since they’re local. End result was excellent.