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Yes, I am still using the XD100 with happy results - I use it in my mother's GW, too - she has a 150OX66. I also use Startron and RingFree religiously. I would LOVE to find an alternative to RF - I'm convinced of it being a good product... I just think it's excessively expensive. I'd read...

Don't worry about getting to HD, Robert - same stuff at Lowes - just a different name on the tag. To your point about HDPE (starboard is a brand name), I remember many years ago when it really "hit the scene" for things like this and it was the cat's meow... until people started having...

Thanks, Robert. Maybe you're right? I don't understand why, though. I don't think anything I said attacked him or was rude in any way? Maybe he didn't read every post, either - early on I suggested PVC board as an option - it all comes down to "to each their own". It just wouldn't be my...

Ummm... who are you talking too? The OP from over a few months ago? You seem agitated. Why? If it's PVC I don't need to drive anywhere - I'm very, very familiar with it from house building/repair

I would assume, based on buying it at a box store, that composite = PVC board. But I don't think that's what is used by GW? You can't really finish edges nicely and I've only ever seen stark white there. But hey - it's all about what floats our own boat, right? All that matters, in the end...

100% agree with that! One little "mostly" broken wire inside a connector that you can't see makes for a big headache. Mostly broken is worse than fully broken!

'Nother idea.... lifeline netting. You'd need to add the ring fitting at the base of each stanchion and the aft end, but it wouldn't be a big job, at all. You might even find these in a clamp-on style.

OK, gotcha. So I'll just throw out some food for thought - although maybe you've already eaten this sandwich and didn't like it.... "If it was me"... -- I probably wouldn't mess with altering the existing one since, at some point, I might want to put it back on.... either for my benefit or to...

It doesn't look all that high to begin with... if you're going to lower it, maybe you don't even really need it based on how you use your boat? Just a thought... try naked for a while - maybe you'll like it!

To better explain where I was coming from... just explaining that he has options and although AGM's are becoming more commonly used nowadays, he doesn't "need" them and has options. Once he has good, valid info - he can make a decision as to what's best for him.

Generally, on engines like what he has, wet cells will last 5 or 6 years with normal maintenance. AGM's might (probably will) last a bit longer, but it just comes down to cost vs lifespan vs the advantages (which you stated) and whether those advantages benefit the user. I'm certainly not...

Nothing wrong with AGM's - just possibly overkill. But, no, absolutely nothing wrong with them functionally with with your setup. Look for Deka batteries, whether standard or AGM - they're one of the best and very solid - or at least get a re-labelled Deka. I think Duracell is actually a Deka...

I think you'll find more people interested in it than you think - especially at your VERY generous offer for free. This is something that can be fitted to many different boats as it's really just a "width" variable... although even that can be accommodated for, to an extent.

I can't say for sure on your boat... but it's not uncommon to have the entire bow rail as one piece. As Seasick eluded to, though, it kind of depends on what's going on right at the bow. However... it will NOT be segmented at every single t-fitting.

Do you "need" to upgrade the wiring... hard to say. But there's certainly worse things you can do than to upgrade 30+ year old wiring :) Unless you're increasing the amp draw on the main dash power lead, there's no reason to upsize it (although it can never hurt to do that). Chances are, all...

I guess as long as your bilge stays bone dry? Meaning, it's not uncommon for bilges to get rainwater in them due to bad seals/whatever... and then we know that the forward bilge on GW's is lower than the aft bilge... which means the forward bilge will start filling up more than normal and then...

Oh, I see what you're saying, now. For some reason, I misread your first post as only talking about the XXL on the transom and then the XXL on the 5" higher transom. But, still an awful big moot point, you know? I mean, no one in their right mind is going to go that extreme expense (and would...

That was likely just to due to old hoses and/or worn/loose clamps, though.

Whether you go LA or AGM is your call once you factor in pros/cons/price. But I agree with Chris - if you're generally happy with how things work, then keep it simple and just replace without messing with wiring. Unless you're going to hire someone, the last thing you want to do is start...

You're good - just open the throttle all the way (not in gear, of course). If you've recently run the engine on the hose, you are OK to do the compression without running the hose water. Otherwise, either run the engine on the hose or just hook up the hose to the flush fitting for 30 seconds...