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If I understand the wiring schematic, I can test the motor in both directions by simply removing the power leads, first connecting them directly to each lead to the motor. Then, I can reverse the power leads on the same motor studs on the switch to check the motor movement in the other...

More details. At the end of last season, I had the seats recovered. Since that time, after the fellow put the passenger seat back after having removed it from the boat, it no longer goes in with the switch. It will go out. Since the seat had been removed and put back in, I am inclined to think...

How do I get inside the seat?

The passenger seat will go out but not go back in. I guess I need to access the actuator. I can't figure out how to get to the internal electrical components of the seat to be able to troubleshoot. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you.

I finally got to speak to Grady White. They say the two white wires are for the electric rams on my power seats. One works fine with the white wire disconnected. The other, I have disconnected to replace my helm seat with a non-movable seat. I'll bet that is the offender.

I no longer have a hardtop.

Makes sense. And yes, when that fuse blew, the plotter stopped working.

Thanks all. I do not have an electrocis box ram. Also, I have Yammies. I cannot seem to find something that does not work. Will continue to work on it. Could those white wires also be coming from my Yamahas? My boat is a bit unusual. For vertical clearance reasons, I had to have to hardtop...

I have a 2013 285 Freedom. I believe I may have a short somewhere. There is a thin gauge wire connected to a 7.5 amp blade fuse on the remote fuse panel. The wire color is white. The owner's manual does not identify this wire. It looks like a factory install and is on the same screw terminal as...

See if amp is wired directly to the battery.

Gaugesaver was in touch today via email and suggested just adding the anti-glare film I had on order. Great service on a Holiday.

Thank you. I tried to use a polarized film I bought and it did not work. In doing some further research, it appears as if the lens has a polarized backing on it (at least I think it is polarized) and some sort of anti-glare on the front. In doing the polishing, I doubt that backing on the lens...

That's all I wear.

I just found part of the answer but I am in need of a solution. From gaugesaver's website: Lens Polish Only will remove ugly water spots, but also removes the anti-glare coating So, how do I get to add a anti-glare coating?

Ok folks, I need some help. I have the above gauge. It was sent to a reputable outfit to polish the lens. However, after polishing, I can no longer read the gauge in direct sunlight. I suspect the anti-glare film was polished off. I have also asked on another forum but does anyone know what...

The voltage jumped on the starboard engine after having dropped to a low 12Volt reading.

I have just replaced my regulator. The problem seems to be resolved. It was clearly a problem. I'd post a picture but I do not know how to reduce the size of the picture to permit it to be posted.

I have the 285 and love it. However, the 307 does offer the bunk setup in the head. The 285 does not have an overnight option. I wish it did. I have asked about the ability to add cushions to the head to make it the same setup and have not received any positive feedback on that option.

I do have that J1939 connector. Just to be clear, when battery 2 is connected, it gives voltages on both engines. When battery 2 is out of the boat and thus not connected, it doesn't give any voltage reading on either engine.