There are 3 thru hulls on the port side. Sink, shower sump and fwd bilge. Other side is one sink.
GW used the “tiger stripe” plastic bilge hose to connect to them (since they are above the waterline). With age they become brittle. None of mine have a loop and were not supported. Make sure the...
What did you mount yours to? Nothing but air above mine. And the back of the connector is open.
The mount shown above is dry behind it. Receptical has a cover.
That's good. Trailers are the most overlooked part of the purchase. I tow 1,300 each way in the Winter. I pay a marina on both ends to pull it off and put back on. My trailer has never been "splashed".
I like the matching wheel rims too!
Yes. Pull the receptacle out on it's power cable to get access. I drilled a hole for the Marinco 12 volt connector next to the AC power. Wire down to battery area. Installed a small fuse block to power my kite reels.
Take a look at post#3. Excuse the cable mess...this has since been cleaned up...
I'm a new 2014 307 Freedom owner that is trying to run power for my downriggers. Port side was easy. Starboard looked impossible . How did you run the power for your reels on the starboard side?
Port side is easy! Starboard side I had to remove the AC power cord connector and snake a wire up to...
I'm a Garmin guy but past experience with marine electronics would have me doing a hard reset (check manual). Re-install all software updates, maps, etc. Reconfigure unit options. Happened to my Garmin Fusion radio and SIRIUS antenna a few times. Good luck!
Upgraded a 1997 268 Islander. Repainted hardtop, tower, console bubble and hull. Kept black door on upper electronics box with Garmin 8610xsv and VHF. Flush mounted Garmin 8612xsv in lower station. Newwire gauge panel and switch panel.
Width isn't usually the problem in older boats - it's the...
The long 1/2" pvc runs from fwd to aft bilge. It can be plugged as mine was to keep water (or leaking fuel) from getting to the fwd cabin.
The other two circled areas are 3/4" pvc couplings that serve as limber holes. They allow whatever is in the compartment the fuel tanks are in to drain back...
There are so many places that could leak that are hidden. Could be rub rail, windows, scupper hoses, it’s a long list.
There is a 1/2” pvc pipe in aft bilge that could be plugged to isolate fwd/aft bilge. May help you troubleshoot.
Both bilge pump exhausts on the Islander are mounted high off the waterline (about 18"). There are no check valves. I have broken both plastic thru hulls off at different times. You should check that as a source of your water.
The aft one broke when I stored my power cord and dock lines in the...
Switched haylard locks from Rupp to GemLux. Much better locking and less wear. Same setup. Equal length long/short, cam cleat tensioner, detachable clip to stow rigger lines on hardtop when not needed.
Check the max wire size for the trolling motor connector. You may need to drill out the back to accommodate 6 awg wire. I would no go to 4 awg. Given it's a 40 amp circuit 6 arg and the length are adequate. If you do decide to go to 4 awg you should do a short 6awg pigtail into the connector...
Grab it with your hand and feel the stepped thickness. Wood under mine!
This isn't the most structurally important part of the boat. Fill it with GitRot and get on with it.
My corner bolster that wrapped around was a constant source of brown stain running down inside the boat. When I finally opened it up I found there was a wooden corner connecting the plastic side bolster backing. I fabricated a new corner piece with stainless piano wire and epoxy "plastic wood"...