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So someone before you went tthe opposite way that you want to go! :p You might save a tiny bit on width (without going to a silly small size, anyways). Measure your width - then you can also go, in addition to the above, to Wise Seats' website and look at what they have. See what will work...

As a good starting point, what do your seats look like? Given how old the boat is, you could anything there right now. But with a narrow boat and the cockpit being even narrower due to the walkaround, anything is going to be tight.

I totally get it - I can envision what you're describing! Another way to think of this to help put you at ease... they've probably been doing it this way with many, many boats for a long, long time. If there was an issue, it would have been discovered by now

Not that it's bad to do this, but maybe there's an easier solution. With my last boat, a cruiser, I had ONE group 27 LA deep cycle battery as the house battery. As a test, I once went 3 days/nights using only that battery - and only ran the engine on two days - once for about 30 minutes, once...

I can understand your line of thinking - it just "looks" wrong. Ideally, yes, more support is good. However, static is different than trailering. Hulls of these (and all boats, generally speaking) are extremely strong and if the supports are roughly near the stringers then you're fine...

Based on what you're writing, it sounds like the first step is to simply go back out and do the trimming the way we've mentioned it above. You kinda need to do that before any other thoughts/ideas can be hashed out. Double check the bottom paint for good measure - both for slime and a very...

I think with that in mind, if it was me, I'd call Garmin with that info. Is there a minimum temp needed to send info (or somewhere in the MFD "logic")? I have no idea - but obviously the temps we're seeing right now on land would never be seen in the water :)

Not sure. But you can safely have the ducer on for a short time. I wouldn't leave it on for 10 minutes (although maybe that's still fine... I don't know) but a minute or so to check what you want to check is fine. I've never ever had one go bad from being on for a couple minutes - and that's...

You don't need Grady for the engine specs/RPM - that's Yamaha. Heck, a quick google will probably tell you that. Can you clarify "engine was trimmed up"? It's not specific enough to explain properly. Is the bottom perfectly clean?

Is that WOT with the engine trimmed up until no more speed or ventilation? RPM seems low - what's your engine's RPM spec?

Looks like you found a dead thread. While I don't have that boat, from the picture, there appears to be two ways it could be secured. Maybe at some point, someone with a similar setup will also respond, but in the meantime it's not too hard to figure out. Either it's snapped in place (not...

My apologies on the price - I had my gauge (an older style, smaller one) in mind that I had done by Gauge Saver. Download the manual for the Garmin unit that you have in mind. In there will be a template that you can either print out or just duplicate on a sheet of paper. Use that to compare...

Guys, before you go too far down the road describing what has already been talked about at length, this thread is from 2021. It was resurrected talking about quality 2-stroke oil and additives. So it's one of those "morph" threads :)

Unless someone with the exact same dash (sometimes it changes over the model years) can respond with this specific answer, your best bet it to simply take some accurate measurements. But... you didn't mention your model year. What other sensors/etc will you need to purchase and what wiring...

If you're getting full voltage (which should be higher than 12V - and over 13V with the engines running), then you likely have a partially failed wire/connection. Meaning, you can get 12V on a single strand of wire - but that won't supply enough AMPERAGE to run the motor. Starting at the...

So you won't really get anything to stick (at least not well) to the plastic. If you don't want to replace the tub (not hard), I can't really think of anything better regarding filling the holes than I've already mentioned. You could use small bolts - either panheads or flats with finish...

Does the stereo have to be mounted inside the tub... or could it be face mounted to a cover plate? Could the stereo go somewhere else? Check out the various boxes/tubs/etc that a place like Boat Outfitters has. Or even just a new tub like a small electronics box or glovebox that is easily...

Put your coat on and go take a quick a pic :) But, I think I have an idea of what you have. It sounds like a plastic "tub" mounted into the wall. Probably held on with screws? So, if you don't really have a need for it, you can make a plate out of just about anything and remove the tub...

The material where the holes are... is it made of plastic? Got a picture of the area so we can get a better idea?

As you are probably surmising, it's likely nothing to immediately worry about as the telltale really has nothing to do with getting proper water flow through the engine. Without being there it's hard to say exactly where the other end of the hose is - I have two similar engines to yours, but am...