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I do get that info but it has not been calculating the available fuel taking off used amount from full tank on CL7. The Raymarine was the one giving strange burned fuel values On trip info page. Anyway I do think I have it figured out now so have to do a refill and set all as full and we will...

How about using no drilling requiring seasucker type attachments https://www.seasucker.com/ can be used for almost anything even board racks on car roofs. H

Bigger full width swim platforms usually have blow out vents. They are small compared to total sq yardage !! Of platform though but it helps when lowering a hydraulic one into the water. Nose up in following waters and eyes on speed vs water following. H

Talked to local dealer tech who advised that the sensor is indeed an ABYC type sensor. So that is now set and waiting for all to be reset after I next time fill the tank.

The new electronic steering systems are tricky in case of failure. On mine there are no hydraulics at the helm so if gremlins mess up you have no steering at all. You would have to find the steering pump modules (one for each 3 engines) release the valve and center motors and lock it up. Then...

The Yamaha CL7 display asks for fuel sensor type ABYC, Yamaha or ? Does anybody know what GW installs in the Freedom 335 (only one tank) as I seem to get really weird information not only on level but also on "fuel used" as shown on my Raymarine Axion 16. Now I am just counting hours and miles...

Sounds fishy to me with same coat on hull and cushions.... I use different wax for the hull compared to vinyl protector.... Anyhow, I have seen some horror examples of ceramic coating on a few year old boats here in South FL. I watched one being sanded down to get it off and rebuffed and waxed...

Interesting reading. If you have the power just use it to get out of the hole, then adjust for seas, uneven load with tabs. The trim works to optimize the running level for speed, consumption and comfort when boat is balanced . You can never rely on just tab level indicators, you have to gauge...

30% seems like a "normal" dealer share of MSRP. That shows that Boat show prices with normally a 20 to even 30% discount probably is split between dealer and mfctr. What rapidly adds to the price are all electronics and fishing gear. Often options also carry higher margins than "base" boat...

Small issues can be bad, example from a number of years back. I keep boat in dry storage indoors. Had it launched one day, went out and let it sit over night In water. next morning I get to boat and open center console door to find life jackets inflated an everything floating...

Remember that just after charging a battery may show high voltage but it still may be a bad battery with no amp power in it. Just a surface charge. Main thing as said above, try starting engine with only dedicated battery connected, first stb then port see if there is a difference in behavior...

I have the electric one and only challenge I had wad to locate a cut wire. After that was done it works fine and I think the key to it is to have it installed so that it is shielded from open elements ie encapsulated and kept clean. a manually deployable tarp is fine as long as you can store it...

Just make sure they are isolated by enough air from anything that could short them. And do as well as possible with the rubber shoes provided originally. common sense is an important factor to count on as well, rare in todays world though........... h

With the factory installed one you can certainly run at reasonable speeds but if it is windy and it flaps I would suggest you pull it in. Common sense, which is not allowed in general, should prevail in cases like these. To install one later might not be as easy as it looks, rigidity of install...

I think I saw you have a manual pump at the head and not a vacuum system. In all cases what I have found most effective to keep the system clean is to always flush with as much water as possible. My Vacu FLush systems on the old boat (two heads) did not ever need a duck bill replaced. Of course...

My 335 is so heavy with full tanks, all of them aft of midship plus generator so it is sticking its nose up when getting going. On plane it is ok but rarely need for trimming motors up except in higher seas. Add a few people in the back and trim tabs are used to trim down.... anyway as said...

Answer is NO. I rather rely on feel and rpm/speed gauges because the conditions are always different as well. If you most of the time run in flat water with same load then maybe a "default" setting could be useful but in my case I actually most of the time end up running with motors at full...

Hit a wave and you hear a bang, just what it does at a certain angle and speed to the right height wake or wave. You will hear a lot of noises that all are normal but different from a quiet car going over a bump and all boats are unique, not two are the same. As said before me, go out enjoy the...

Remember ICW rules and the slower you go the bigger the wake...... until you have boat below hull speed (whole boat in water, no raised bow) around us they have introduced a few new speed limit zones around marinas and restaurants. I'm on Atlantic side so a little more restricted I'm sure but...

Remember a fridge is not getting cold in a flash when turned on. If the boat is not tied up to shore power you cannot keep it on except when out on the boat. That said you are better off with a good cooler that also usually would be roomier. This is a real issue for me keeping boat at a marina...