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Now I’ll really flip you out….I‘m pretty sure that 06 was my boat. I sold it to an older gentleman who, despite several lessons given to him by me and numerous phone calls….Just couldn’t handle it. I think he sold it to you. I was the original owner and, in fact, was part of the customer...

A couple of considerations for you: 1. The only twin configuration for that boat (Original power) for those years will be 350’s. They will be either Gen 1 or 2. 1 had many problems, 2 had a few less. Gen 3’s (2016) are pretty much trouble free except for having to replace the flywheel’s...

It’s a really big boat for a 23 footer because of the wide beam. It’s a fantastic boat….But, get twins……The boat runs totally different with twins vs. single screw…..Around the dock and at sea……Get the twins……

I had a 2006 360 for 11 years. It’s still out on the water with no issues that I am aware of. Older Grady’s can have transom issues just like any other boat but the reports are overblown. A well-cared for boat will be fine and to my knowledge there were no changes to the 360 hull in 2008...

If it is a late model Garmin display it should say the transducer model in the bottom left corner of the screen when on the sonar page. Also, check your settings and make sure you have it set to display depth in all modes.

Anything can be done but the boat was only designed for a single. Most folks with that hull who want redundancy add a kicker motor on a bracket - Can even be hooked to a throttle at the helm if you want it. Twins might be doable with 115’s or 130’s. 150’s might be too much weight for that...

PS. there is an 04 with NEW (2020) power over on THT. It has a tower on it though but looks decent…..

The 330 is an awesome boat. I had one - It was an 03 with twin 225’s and no thruster. You will hear all sorts of opinions here and elsewhere on what is needed to power the boat, options, etc. They are all valid and none are “Wrong”. However, it is all a matter of your needs/perspective and...

I had a MArlin with 225 2 strokes and a 330 with 225 4 strokes.....Both ran just fine and cruised comfortably at 30 MPH. No problems getting on plane....I went offshore plenty......It’s all subjective....If you are in a hurry and want to cruise at 40 plus or you need to rocket on plane then you...

I owned a 360 for 11 years. Best boat I ever had. A real tank. I kept my stern anchor along with rode and chain in the generator compartment under the aft deck. Plenty of room in there for that, 2 dockside power cords, hose (foldable) and several extra fenders. The road and chain were in a...

The seacocks for both the sump pump and the head macerator should be located under the rear bunk. They should be labeled with a yellow tag. As stated above, the sump pump is for the shower. The macerator is for the head. To use the macerator you should turn your head on as well as water and...

Dealer needs to discount more than that. They are not doing you any favors on your trade. It is a fair price and no more. They should discount a minimum of 10% of MSRP. A good deal would be closer to 15%. There is still 4K - 9K in this deal. They will till make a good profit. Remember, the...

What Journeyman said is spot on. You must USE the wind and tide to help you, as if not, they will work against you. Know which way the wind and tide will push you BEFORE you get into the marina. Plan for it. Always head into the wind if possible - even if it means passing your slip and...

You have to take the entire unit out - including the enclosure that the table mounts to. the two thumbscrews hold it in. Remove them, lift the entire fiberglass unit up and out. The battery will be on the floor of the bulkhead slightly to the right side. You cannot miss it.

It is located at the helm. You have to unscrew the flip up table and it's housing from the starboard side bulkhead. There are two large thumbscrews on either side at the top of the table going into the starboard bulkhead. Remove those and lift the entire unit out. The battery is located...

Yup. Spun hub. If it ran normally for a bit and there is no prop damage that is what it is. Not a huge deal and not too expensive to fix.

depending on the level of oxidation: step 1: Using a good rotary and oscillating wheel apply rubbing compound (medium or heavy - I would try medium first). step 2: After removing the rubbing compound, wash the entire hull with Dawn dishwashing detergent. step 3: Apply Collinites 920...

Could be one of several issues but it is most likely the sending unit. Also could be a stuck float. Both are very easy to check via the access plate in the deck.

Could be one bad spark plug. Happens all the time. They will look/act fine at the dock and even run fine most of the time but when they get hot, etc.....They start to fail....cool them down...work fine. If you haven't already....Try replacing them - You can even do it one by one. If you have...

Bill at POE is a class act. He will make sure you are all set. My family has been doing business there for over 40 years and I have bought 13 boats from them. I keep my boat there. You are in good hands and should not worry at all about launching and using the boat now. Bill can put a...