Search results

Yup, I think you're on the right track to question it and get more info. That bolt/nut/washer look awful clean - like they were just recently replaced.... or maybe the bracket was removed to repair the transom? Investigate. What does the seller say about it?

But again, over the gunwale is not good. Over the bow rail would be high enough - but that's really bad because it severely restricts your vision. The aft gunwale, keeping them high enough, would be fine. Maybe those rod holder racks is what you're looking for? A couple pieces of dense foam...

I can't imagine that mounting on the exterior of the boat is going be wise - wave pounding/etc will put tremendous pressure on the boats/mount and your hull. I can foresee bad things happening. Put them on the hardtop

The standard way to attach coaming pads is via bolster clips and screws. You can find the screws in the drain vents/holes in the bottom of the pad.

You can certainly try to negotiate with your dealer - best done in person - and even better if you've been a regular at their shop. But whether you are successful or not is entirely based on the relationship you have with them. Whether someone else has been successful is a moot point. I'm...

I don't think you can buy direct from them... did you see something on their website that made you think you could? But it's certainly worth a shot to call and talk to them - maybe you can at least find out the part number for that piece and then locate a dealer that sells parts. As long as...

If the picture is correct, that surface looks unpainted and really pitted. If that's true, there's going to be more spots like you found - the Al will be very thin. Based solely on the picture, it may be time for a new bracket. You don't want to fix a few spots only to have the whole thing...

It'd be a moot point if you'll be using the main engine for steering. But, yes. Whether a rear mount tie bar or front mount tie bar... if something off the shelf won't work, then cobble something. How "cobbley" it looks is up to you :)

That's not too bad to start with. I'd probably add a support underneath the bracket for good measure, though. How do you intend to use the kicker? Meaning, would it be sufficient to put the kicker in gear/throttle up and then use the main engine for steering (like a rudder) with the kicker...

What does the swim bracket look like?

Nice install, there, Hook! Tank contact points isolated... worm gears rotated 180*... smooth bends in wires... :) One "thought" to pass along... and this is just my opinion on it... even though your tank is coated... the idea of the plastic as a drip guard sounds good on the surface...

Do you hear the pump running? If you have two seacocks, as you stated, then you have two pumps, correct? Did you open the correct seacock?

Looks like a kill switch. Flick it down and you probably won't be able to start the engine. If it's still operational, that is. At 40 years old and who knows-how-many-owners, you never know!

Understood!!! So, yeah, I would probably lean towards a backer plate rather than just the Togglers (although they are pretty darn good). Here's one way to do this without having any visible holes - Get a 3/16" or 1/4" aluminum plate that allows you to make a circle a bit larger than the seat...

No "cut up" - but you're going to need to fasten the seat base really good. Screwing it down isn't the best - it should be thru-bolted. -- Togglers are a good way to do that.

Once you remove the B-B, you can do whatever you want. But the mounting holes will be different.

Pumps are a pretty generic thing and not really specific to a boat. All they do is pump water through a tube - from under the boat to the side of the boat where it exits. March is a good/common manufacturer. I'm sure you know where the seacock is to close off the supply (and, if needed, to...

I would definitely look into getting rid of that. It might be fine for a while, depending on where/how you boat, but eventually (possibly VERY quickly) the aluminum is going to corrode away. Even stainless screws can cause issues. Get a Marelon bulkhead fitting and you'll be golden. Even a...

Correct. But it at least "complains" to let you know there's some sort of issue - at which time one could further investigate.

Oh, well that explanation makes more sense! When you said "fill the hole", it didn't make sense. Truthfully, leaving it bare isn't a big problem since if it gets wet, it will always dry out. Unless, of course, you leave the bilge wet. As long as you are 100% sure it sealed, though, you're...