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Hmmmm... maybe I can put a piano hinge on the plexiglass.....

If you figure it out, let me know. Been searching for 4 years for my mother's 2000 192. There are some salvage companies out there - but it's hit or miss as to what they have and even whether they have something from another boat that would at least fit using the dimensions of the piece. I'm...

Yeah, it would be obvious as the cutout for the engine and dog box would be wider than normal hatches down the center of the boat. Oh my! You have original tanks and they are NOT leaking, yet? :eek: That's practically unheard of.

I'm not saying it is... but being on a bracket "could" mean it was originally a stern drive. But you know your boat better than me! :) I believe there was both a bracket-mounted version and a stern drive back then? But you'd be able to tell right away from the floor cutout - unless someone...

Take the vac hose off the gauge - does water come out? Take the vac hose off at both ends... does it old pressure or vacuum? Is the nipple/pathway on the engine clear? Does the gauge work if you blow into it... or blow into it from the engine end of the hose?

So the OB is NOT on a bracket?

Those gauges look a lot older than 2005 - are they original to boat? Did the boat originally have a stern drive? Does that small vacuum hose ACTUALLY go into/show up at the engine? Does it work?

That's a water pressure gauge.

Is your boat currently painted - or gelcoat? "Classic" color would be white - which is not paint. I've done some small boats and used EasyPoxy - but something larger and where you want it to be extra good, you'll probably want a 2-part like AwlGrip. I haven't personally used this - but...

Got any water in the aft or mid bilge?

Who makes the seat? You can try reaching out to that company. The picture is fuzzy and doesn't show much detail - nor is there a picture of the seat/spider assembly. BUT... it "might" be a standard 1/4" pin with a little locking ball at the top end? Those are pretty common - very common -...

With the boat level, you can remove the fuel sender and simply "dip" the tank to physically check the level as you asked. If it's a square bottom tank, you can easily do a simple calculation based on the size/volume.

It's probably chrome over BRONZE. While they might start pitting and look ugly, bronze is the best material to have in terms of lifespan and integrity... often lasting many, many decades. Survey... trust but verify. Do that test I mentioned above. And don't do it gingerly - do it hard!

You must have really good access for that one - I was imagining trying to stretch your arm into 18 different positions and angles while trying to security wrap tape around the hose with only one hand!

Have you checked the integirty of the transom and whether or not there is risk of the engines breaking off the transom? With the engines tilted up, you need to Jump/push HARD on the lower unit and watch the transom for flex. Yes, water weight trapped somewhere will of course weigh down the...

True, but... if you had a 2-1/2" hole thru your transom, yet it was 2" above the waterline, would you put the boat in the water?

I'm thinking that since it wasn't replaced already, it's in an awkward spot (like most)... which means trying to get hands in there to wrap tape around it would be even more awkward... which means replacement is easier. In other words, if wrapping tape around it is doable, then it would be even...

I'd be worried that they could leak/rupture unexpectedly and possibly sink your boat. Especially since it seems like the boat is in a slip where it may be unattended... and that's probably EXACTLY when the hoses will fail :rolleyes: Now, only you know exactly how bad they really are. Yes...

Yeah, and on top of that the fuel prices are crazy! But, yes, I understand what you're saying. Sometimes, there just isn't enough pull/vacuum at low RPM's to get enough fuel. BUT... I overlooked that you probably have a fuel injected engine and that is probably less likely the issue. To...

:p