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See the part I wrote about the dash. That's how you can find the other ends of the wire - ohm them if you need to in order to confirm. But, HOPEFULLY, if anyone was in there messin' around over the years, they used the proper color wires. Also... my first question?

So "not" the Taylor Made ones? Which Taco locks are you referring to?

Tons out there - what style do you want? Post/link a few that you are thinking of and we can offer some thoughts. The Taylor made "pegs" have been around for decades and are probably the simplest ones... and sometimes simple is good!

We use "X"Voltage to 12V stepdown converters all the time when rigging electric outboards on pontoons (they run 24V or 48V). So, sure, that part is fine. Just don't get a cheapie one. But... when the engine is running... and if I'm thinking of this correctly... you'll be back feeding 13V...

There's gotta be someone around with a trailer that you can borrow?

I think you're fine to replace it in the water - just have a "worst case" back-up plan. For example, if your plug should fail... what is your back-up to plug the hole well enough to get the boat on land? Beaching the boat can be one of the back-up plans. If you're in good standing with your...

"It clicks"... What clicks? Motor or float switch? Yes, you can short the float switch wires together to test wiring. Where does the switch hook up? Dude, it's over 3-1/2 decades old with who-knows-how-many-owners - there's no way we can tell you anything better that you can see for...

Yes, standard ohms here in the States is 33 to 240 - that's been the standard for decades and hasn't changed. 33 for full and 240 empty. You can do the quick "remove the pink" then "pink to ground" test to ensure you're getting a proper signal to the gauge and that it swings from E to F. But...

Hmmmm... maybe I can put a piano hinge on the plexiglass.....

If you figure it out, let me know. Been searching for 4 years for my mother's 2000 192. There are some salvage companies out there - but it's hit or miss as to what they have and even whether they have something from another boat that would at least fit using the dimensions of the piece. I'm...

Yeah, it would be obvious as the cutout for the engine and dog box would be wider than normal hatches down the center of the boat. Oh my! You have original tanks and they are NOT leaking, yet? :eek: That's practically unheard of.

I'm not saying it is... but being on a bracket "could" mean it was originally a stern drive. But you know your boat better than me! :) I believe there was both a bracket-mounted version and a stern drive back then? But you'd be able to tell right away from the floor cutout - unless someone...

Take the vac hose off the gauge - does water come out? Take the vac hose off at both ends... does it old pressure or vacuum? Is the nipple/pathway on the engine clear? Does the gauge work if you blow into it... or blow into it from the engine end of the hose?

So the OB is NOT on a bracket?

Those gauges look a lot older than 2005 - are they original to boat? Did the boat originally have a stern drive? Does that small vacuum hose ACTUALLY go into/show up at the engine? Does it work?

That's a water pressure gauge.

Is your boat currently painted - or gelcoat? "Classic" color would be white - which is not paint. I've done some small boats and used EasyPoxy - but something larger and where you want it to be extra good, you'll probably want a 2-part like AwlGrip. I haven't personally used this - but...

Got any water in the aft or mid bilge?

Who makes the seat? You can try reaching out to that company. The picture is fuzzy and doesn't show much detail - nor is there a picture of the seat/spider assembly. BUT... it "might" be a standard 1/4" pin with a little locking ball at the top end? Those are pretty common - very common -...

With the boat level, you can remove the fuel sender and simply "dip" the tank to physically check the level as you asked. If it's a square bottom tank, you can easily do a simple calculation based on the size/volume.