Search results

Couldn't tell you for sure, but it's easy enough to figure out by just looking at things. A charger is either hooked direct to the batteries or the battery switch. Start at your batteries - do you see small wires? Often times, there will be fuses inline on those wires.

Those two items will not be protected by a common fuse. If the box on your boat isn't labelled, and there isn't specific info in your manual, then use the wire colors to match things up... either by comparing to the actual switch and/or using the guide Hook provided as wire colors are...

You're probably right - I was just curious since it wasn't mentioned and I don't actually know.

Perfect - good pics. That's an easy one as you can just space it higher with, really, just about anything. Wood, HDPE, aluminum tube stock... you get the idea. I "suspect" your access will be some combinatio of through the speaker hole or via the drawers. Still try the drive and tab angle...

Does his stereo definitely have zones? I had/have no idea what stereo he has?

Can you post a couple pics of your chairs - especially the underside and post hardware? That would help to know what we're dealing with. Or... maybe you're running with the engine trim too high and/or not using tabs? You might only need to drop the bow a few degrees to make a very noticeable...

Just to be clear, since we only have what we actually write to convey thoughts... "balance" typically refers to the left/right... but I think you did actually do the fade thing? But, yeah, stock systems are not the best for trying to listen at speed. To do that, you need to do some mod's -...

You can only add two more speakers if whatever head unit is in there will support it. BUT, you could move the two front speakers to the rear. Have you tried simply playing with the fade function? It's a very standard setting that pretty much all stereos have... and have had for decades...

Hmmmm. Might want to rethink that move. If you read up on this - there's plenty of info about it - pretty much all GW's have a mid-ship bilge slightly lower than the aft bilge. So, naturally, some water will flow from aft to mid. Now, if you plug the mid-ship bilge... and you start to get...

What were your results when you ran with the gas cap off as suggested above? What's your fuel pressure while running? Run it on a portable gas tank plumbed right to the engine. Report back.

The bunk doesn't factor in while it's on the trailer, either (see what I wrote). Truthfully, there's nothing special about this hull in terms of what we're talking about. I (and guys at my shop) have done so many ducer installs over the decades... it's just a simple install - looking for...

I'd put it in this vicinity (see the yellow area). The bunk has no impact on the transducer usage. If the bunk sticks out past the transom, just cut it or move the boat back slightly on the trailer as long as you have some tongue weight to spare. Also, don't get too caught up in wanting to...

As Seasick menitoned - and just for "correctness" so we're all on the same page, it's most likely ventilation, not cavitation. They're really two different things. Put a match mark on your prop hub (rubber vs metal) and then see if the marks are no longer matched.Another cause of ventilation...

I honestly don't know - all I do is click the envelope at the top right or just hover over the person's name. Maybe it's because you're not an "active" memeber? It would seem reasonable that DM's may not be allowed until after X amount posts to ward of spammers.

Of course! Remember that you're only looking for HDPE, not necessarily the "brand" Starboard. Mcamaster Carr is a good source for this - although it's easy enough to find. If you have a local marine store (a real one), they shoudl be able to order a small sheet for you, as well.

Another thought... would a piece of canvas and a few snaps do the job? But, HDPE is pretty easy to work with. If you're at least decent working with wood - you'll be fine with HDPE. It would be a fun little project that you could do at your own pace... maybe over the Winter... since it's...

I assume you mean gelcoat, not fiberglass? Depending on what the core structure is will determine how easy it is to fix. Some the Grady's used this pressed-type junky core that makes things difficult and/or not worth it. You could use them to make a mold and make your own. Or, what about...

Or... use the two piece push-together plastic fittings - check TH Marine. Pretty ingenious. Used them myself on my mother's 192 and very happy with them. I'd use them again in a heartbeat.

A transfer pump looks a lot like a Vac pump (suction pump). T-pump and S-pump. The T-pump has 2 duckbills in it rather than 4 like an S-pump and is often black instead of white. It's possible those duckbills got inverted or damaged. Follow the discharge line from the holding tank. It may or...

Of course! Doing the method I mentioned is super easy and only requires 4th grade math and a $10 Harbor Freight multimeter - no EE degree needed