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That fuse holder style above is not one I've seen on ProMariner. Probably something they swapped the original out for. But yes they have significantly improved the fuse holders. Switching from glass fuses to ceramic. Different style of screw down holder. Much better. I could go out at night...

I have owned several ProMariner chargers over the last 15 years. One went "dark" on me. I had chronic problems with melting the fuse holders. Fuse holder problem was so bad you could hookup shore power and grab the fuse holders and they would be hot to the touch. The latest one is a ProMariner...

Both work just fine for me... I prefer the claw in the FL Keys with all the coral. And 20' of chain is important. I get it back most of the time. The Danforth is a looser - always bending it and not working afterwards.

Delta or claw. Both "plow".

Either delta or plow. A 13 or something a little heavier. Depends on where/what kind of bottom you are anchoring on. https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/anchor-roller.37282/#post-262636 Took me a little while to get around to refinishing the boat pulpit after the rework for the pivoting roller...

I'm curious how your rod is setup from line on reel to the hook. Braid backing? mono top shot? windon leader? knots used to connect? snap swivel? leader? connections? lure or bait? Our offshore setups are rigged like fly rods only much heavier. The boats that long range tuna fish out of...

This is a EuroTransom. It functions like a bracket (only it fiberglass) getting the engines further back from the running surface. I haven't changed anything about the boat that was 10 years old when I bought it. Except moving to 4-blade props which were a game changer.

$12,000 plus sales tax and couple hundred in materials. The number was a little higher because of the glass work to eliminate the "bang cap" and gelcoat refinishing of splash well.

www.propgods.com

No. A waste of my time. If you have a plywood transom in your GW this is your destiny. Are you going to file a claim for your plywood transom or do you know for sure you have a composite transom?

You're chasing the Santa Clause dream of GW ownership and for that matter any 20+ year old boat! Truth is they are all sinking...only difference is how fast! They need TLC and $$$. For my 1997 268 Islander I did fuel tanks a couple of years ago. Just finished a transom last week. Refinished...

It's not rubbing. It's stress. Not sure from what. Could be rope. I'm looking at refinishing mine. The top engine cover for lack of a better term looks like a fiberglass component. The lower "clamshell" part wraps around. It's some kind of plastic. It doesn't hold paint well. I'm going to paint...

The best practice is to use insulating sleeve washers/bushing to keep the 316 stainless from being in contact with the aluminum bracket. Add a plastic washer to the other side. This is how riggers are done and how brackets, hardtops and other aluminum/stainless mounting should be done...

I didn't re-read this thread but Marine Glass Specialties in Florida is probably your only hope. Short of someone parting out an older boat. Look in For-Sale section.

Maybe all of us GW plywood transom owners should initiate a class action suit against GW and Greenwood Products. We need a good blood sucking law firm to take the case on. Given that Smith is giving profits away to charity why not give it to customers who have been harmed by GW engineering...

Someone scrapping a 268 Islander. Not sure if he has a hardtop. Contact him yourself. https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/1995-islander-268-hull-free.40142/

Put some pictures up of the boat. Do you have a clear title to go with the hull? Try to PM this guy. He is looking for a hardtop and tower. https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/99-islander-268-top-options.40034/ I may be interested in hatches (anchor locker, port/star over bait well and fish box...

When my glass guys stripped the "skin" off the transom of my 1997 268 Islander they took this picture for me. Rotated and blown up you can read "XL", "Lifetime Warranty", "quality audited". Quick check with Google AI: This is "Greenwood XL" that GW used in 1997. Typical latent defect. Warranty...

When you shock the tank you will knock the snot off the tank and hoses. Drive the boat around and shake things up! As above get all the paths covered including hot water tank. Pull the aerators off the faucets and remove filters if you can for final flush. I would also blow out the lines with...

Project finished! I'll add a photo of the splashwell when the motor harness is hooked up. AwlCraft 2000 paint is amazing! That finish is out of the spray gun - not sanded or buffed. Hasn’t been sealed yet either.