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The rubber circle on the throttle arm is the button that disengages the shift cable so you can advance the throttle in neutral. Push and hold it in while pushing the throttle lever forward and you'll stay in neutral and be able to start the motor with the throttle advanced.

Manual choke on the motor is operated by pulling the slider bar (or whatever it's called) out from the bottom cowling, starting the motor with the throttle advanced, then quickly running back to the motor to push the choke back in before the motor bogs down, then quickly running back to the helm...

boslaw, what fuel are you running? I've been running 87 octane E10 with Ring-Free ever since E10 became the only fuel readily available in CA about 10 years ago, but switched over to 91 octane E10 at the end of last year. There was a noticeable difference in the idle smoothness with the 91...

Same for me. No smoke on restart, and low idle only occurs after restart. If I don't shut the motor off, it will idle nicely at 600-700 RPM all day without missing a beat. After a restart, it wants to idle at 400-500 RPM and stalls out with a sneeze. I've got a mechanical choke on the motor and...

In my case, it coughs enough to disengage the starter Bendix almost immediately upon turning the key but then also immediately quits. This seems a bit different than boslaw's problem. So whether we have the same problem, and he just has a more severe case than I do, or we have different...

Interesting. I have the same idling problem. It idles too low (400 RPM) after a semi-warm start and will stall. So I have to keep the throttle advanced in neutral and be quick when pulling the throttle back and then forward to shift into gear to keep it running.

Based on my experience with my similar problem, I think this is going down the right path with a vapor lock issue.

I'm watching this thread because my carbed SWS has been doing this for years and has every Yamaha certified mechanic stumped. Motor starts right up on the first try in about 2 seconds when cold, even when sitting for 6 months (fully mechanically choked). But semi-warm, it's a PITA to get started...

There is some glass in the edges, but it looks like chopper gun glass fibers, not woven. I just went through a gelcoat repair on the hatch a couple months ago.

My '95 is carpeted with the same carpet that lines the cuddy cabin.

Rick, yep that’s a schoolie yellowfin. Here’s the best photo I have showing the intake (for some reason all my useful photos have fish in them ). The bait tank has its own dedicated thru-hull with a Rule 800 GPH centrifugal pump on it. But there shouldn’t be any reason you couldn’t Tee off of a...

This is the setup we have using a Kodiak PF32. It will keep 10 lbs of sardines alive all day and longer. Intake hose comes from the thru-hull in the bilge and through the bulkhead in front of the splashwell. Overflow hose goes over the splashwell and out the transom notch.

THanks, Dennis. The hatch itself is fine. There’s no bad core. The only damage is what’s shown in the photos above, and it doesn't extend past where the gelcoat is chipped. I may just apply the epoxy to the back side for strength and Spectrum color get coat to the front side, and with a little...

I don't think you're wrong. It's not ideal, but I think it's the best way to get it to wick up into the exposed fibers. The good news is I have space on the back side to build up the thickness of the edge a little bit, so I may end up doing that, and the edge of the hatch is not load bearing, so...

The edges are just glass, but the hatch where the non-skid is looks like it's cored. It about about 1 inch thick and very solid.

I've got the Spectrum color on order... $40 is right, but $53 with tax and shipping :) . This will be my 2nd project using it. The first was fixing some blistering in the bow pulpit many years ago. The exposed fibers you see aren't solid, it's broken up and flexible. That's what happens when you...

Sounds familiar. This is my winter project... A little bit of epoxy and gelcoat work, and after looking at it, I'm planning on thinning out the epoxy to seal around the edge.

While that’s not a bad idea, they’ve been on there 23 years with zero signs of stress, so I don’t think it’s really needed.

Here it is. The superstructure is at least 1 inch thick plywood, maybe 1.5”. Whatever it is, it’s thick. The radar arch is thru-bolted with flat washers. Looks like low grade 18-8 stainless was used as they are looking a bit rusty after 23 years.

It's been so long since I've had the side panels off, and I didn't do the original install, so I don't remember how ours is backed. But I'll pull a side panel off and take some photos when I get a chance.