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That looks good! Did you go pure white, or did you match the Grady gelcoat?

I've seen people mount plastic ones to the sides of the cuddy cabin, if just used for storage. You'd just have to find a location where it didn't interfere with the bimini frame. In my case, I've got 4 rod holders on the Kodiak bait tank mounted in the center of the deck, and also 6 holders on...

Seasick’s numbers are pretty good, except the dry weight of the 208 is 2650 lbs for your vintage hull, not 2000. Here’s what I always figure for heaviest case: Trailer 1100 lbs (I have a Pacific galvanized trailer) Hull 2650 lbs Motor 420 lbs Full fuel tank 500 lbs Full fresh water tank 80 lbs...

Sdfish, typical cruise in normal 2-3 foot chop with some wind is 4200 RPM, burning about 10 GPH, cruising at 24 knots. When we're heavy with bait and fuel, that may bump up closer to 11 GPH. If it's flat glassy, we can bump up to 4400 RPM and cruise at about 28 knots before fuel economy starts...

The previous owner did the install, and it is bolted to the deck. We’ve got 2 thru-hulls... one is shared with the under step livewell and wash down hose, and the other dedicated to the bait tank. The intake hose comes out through the rear bulkhead and lays along the deck for about 16 inches or...

Cool, nice to see local people on the board! I lived in Carlsbad for 12 years before moving 3 years ago. The built-in bait tank is useless for anything but a few mackerel or as a place to bleed out fish before throwing them on ice. We've got a Kodiak Pro-Flow 32 gallon on the middle of the...

Congrats on your purchase! In my boat, I do not have an ACR, just 2 Group 27 batteries and the selector switch. When the switch is set to both, both batteries charge. I do what most people do not recommend doing in that I leave the selector switch on Both unless I'm stopped with the motor off...

I had that exact symptom once with my 1995 175 Yamaha 2-stroke. Just a few hours after a service, the RPM's maxed out at 4200. Normal WOT was 5300 RPM. It turned out we had a bad spark plug. Problem went away when we changed the plugs again. I assume as part of the tune up, they would have...

We were, which is why I started with the caveat that my post was kind of off topic. But, my point was, I guess, what's new is old... The new Yamaha 425 re-routes the exhaust to lessen cavitation on the prop in reverse. That type of design existed in an OMC drive that came out in 1964, and worked...

Kinda not on topic... the boat I grew up with had an old OMC electric shift outdrive. The exhaust on that drive was routed out through the trim tab on the anti-cavitation plate, so the prop always had clean water to bite into. You want to talk about power in reverse... that boat had it. The...

Eric, I don't think you'll have much success keeping anchovies alive in the under-step fish boxes. I tried it once, and the 'chovies all ended up getting sucked into the overflow and clogging it up. This was in the factory plumbed livewell under the port side step in my 208 Adventure. I only...

I'm somewhat in the same situation as you with roughly the same vintage hull and motor, having thought about repowering. Here are my thoughts. Sticking with Yamaha, I think the best motor option would be the 4-cylinder Yamaha F200 four stroke. Its weight is about 60 lbs heavier than my current...

To confirm, I'd pull the old one out of your tank and measure its length before buying anything. But, this is the one I installed... 10.5 inch length. Item# Item Name SSS/SSL SSS/SSL Fuel or Water Level Sensors (4 - 60 in.) (Length - 10.5 in.)...

My motor, though slightly older vintage, always idles around 800-900 RPM while out of the water and 600-700 while in the water. As Dennis stated above, the back pressure on the exhaust underwater seems to smooth things out. Assuming you have a 17 inch pitch prop, idling in gear @600 RPM is going...

Welcome! It's nice to see fellow Grady owners in Dana Point! I'd go with a custom cockpit cover similar to what Parthery is showing. Price out here won't been too much different. They are a lot of good independent canvas guys around, though I've still got the same cover we had made 15 years...

Google search "OMC auxiliary motor bracket" and you'll find a few good photos of the pieces you're missing. Looks like you're missing the motor mounting plate and the 2 angle brackets that hold it onto the piece you have. Also looks like the motor mounting plate has an aluminum cap on it...

That's odd. I've got 2 Group 27 batteries in boxes under the starboard seat. Group 27's are slightly larger than Group 24's, so you should be able to fit them...?

It's never a bad idea to get the motor and boat surveyed before making a purchase, but from what you've described, I don't think it's the motor causing the slow speeds. Are you able to reach the rated RPM at WOT? My guess is either rough bottom paint or heavy hull (due to how much stuff is on...

Yes, it should be faster than 28 mph, but probably not by too much. At 4800 RPM, I'd expect my boat to be 32-33 mph. I don't think it has anything do to with the engine though. Unless the drive train is slipping when it shouldn't be, the prop is going to be turning an RPM directly related to...

Ha! No, it's totally random as far as I can tell. I don't think we ever have 4 knots of current at the launch ramp, even on extreme tide swings. Unless, of course, we're having a tsunami event ;-) https://youtu.be/ropC7NzcVlI https://youtu.be/ropC7NzcVlI