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As long as you didn't use something like 3M5200 (which is completely the wrong product for applications like this) you'll be fine. If you did, you can try to get some strong fishing line in there like a rope saw. Heat can help - as long as you don't damage the Ride, of course. While I've...

I'm not aware of low engines ever causing hole shot issues - it's more of a top end problem because of the extra drag it creates (which isn't yet an issue at low speeds). If the anti-ventilation plate is too low, though, yes, that definitely needs to come up. Strange that they were mounted too...

:)

Fan-freakin-tastic! :) :) And thanks for the dinner offer! And the recommendation for a dinner offer, too :p

Don't thank me, yet :) But it's certainly a logical possibility. Hopefully that's all it is!

How about the pitot hose? If that has come off the gauge and/or split/cracked, it would shoot water out when at speed and follow "some" pathway. Given it's roughly in the location of where you are seeing water come out... pull the gauge (or panel if you have one) and inspect.

Of course... if a lot of sealant was used, then it likely also squished down into the small gap between the vertical section of the livewell and the cut-out. From what I can see in the picture, it doesn't appear to be too bad... but that's only looking at one small section. Can you "wedge" the...

So then it probably makes sense to have it in a better area. Although, the reality is that boats don't sink in 8 seconds. There's plenty of time to grab necessary gear like a a go bag, offshore life jackets, etc. And, if the conditions are warranted, jackets should already be one. But, yeah...

I only know the basics about an EPIRB, but I suppose it depends on which kind it is, right? Is the kind that will self-release from the bracket if it gets "x" number of feet underwater? Or is it a manual release (need to physically grab it)?

Lucky... what if you left it where it was but made lifting the float a "remote" operation? For example - and this is a very basic idea just to explain what I'm thinking... screw/epoxy a string to the float and run the other end of the string up to a hook within easy reach. Or... a small "tool"...

Genius! That would definitely make it much, MUCH easier... why don't manufacturers think like that! :) :) :)

It won't be any different than any other boat - the directions that come with it will tell you all of the things to watch out for... obstructions such as strakes, etc. Also anything that would disrupt water flow such as other thru-hulls forward of your location. There's no magical/one best...

If it's a relatively new boat, your local dealer will be able to get it. But you might also ask them if it was actually a custom made unit... or an off the shelf unit from a third party. For example, Google for Garelick cockpit step as an idea.

So they ARE curved (convex/concave)? I'm surprised they are curved.

Most, if not all, all around lights come with a length (maybe 8" or 12") of wire already attached. But... what other "white" lights do you have and where are they located? There may be a better solution. Do you have a hardtop or Bimini?

Oh, you're going old school and tinting to match yourself - good! We have a gel guy in the area that does that - he's been doing it for 50 years. It's an art form.

Oh... we just had a Sea Ray gel tech come to our shop for a warranty repair - he brought a cool little tool that Spectrum Gel has (I'm sure they're not the only ones). It's a 4"x1-1/2" tube that is, essentially, the same "paint matcher" at a paint store. He took multiple measurements around...

I think it's going to look great - the shape you have looks very natural/blends right in. I guess what I meant about the 90mm was... why worry about keeping as much of the original pod as possible? If you cut it at all, might as well cut as much as you can... what are 'ya saving it for...

"I was really curious if any body in the group actually pulled the new lines thru and any input" -- Yes, what I posted was some tips I've used (in addition to what Seasick mentioned) over the years. Silicon spray is a safe product for rubber. It actually helps preserve/condition rubber. Dish...

If the glass is perfectly flat, yes, that's your best option. If it's curved.... it's going to get very expensive.