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Not in the middle - not the pocket... there's something else further fore/aft.

I think I'd move the location a little further away from that pocket. I don't know if we're looking fore or aft but there appears to be something else not too far away - it's in the lower section of your picture.

DE, you're right - I was assuming (even though you addressed GW216, specifically) you were asking AUMike. For your bow light... you might consider one of the insertable/removable bow lights "on a stick". That's another option, anyways. With your boat in the water, how much distance do you...

Actually, you can do an easy thing to figure this out. The overall dimensions are easy because you know the space it needs to fit inside. Get a piece of 1/2" foam board insulation from Lowes or HD - it's cheap and very easy to work with. Use that to make your template of the board. Then...

Cracked? You mean the gap that allows the socket to be loosened and tightened?

Actually, there's been a couple very recent threads about this exact thing with good info. In one of them, there was more info to even another person that did it. Just look back through threads over the last few weeks.

Take the boat out, trim the engines up and run just off plane where the bow gets nice and high. The water will run back the aft bilge and get pumped out.

That's a nice, neat solution. Other than the leftover sealant........ Plastic razor blades and a rag :) I know... you said the pics were before cleanup... but I couldn't resist!

Hmmmm... something seems fishy with Dirty - I looked at his posts. All simply/quick replies likely to get a post count up... and one of his posts said Happy 4th of July but was hyperlinked to some weird looking address that I didn't dare want to click on. I'm going to go out on a limb and say...

That's a heck of a price for a Fisher cover! I almost want to buy it "just because" :)

Ah, gotcha - the boat doesn't have the original gelcoat. Understood. Good deal!

Very nice work, boss! The bow rail came out really nice. The plate looks like it sits in a fiberglass form? I'm sure that adds to the rigidity of the plate. Plus, you don't have a whole lot of unsupported plate, either, with the positioning. Quick suggestion... don't worry about fairing it...

:)

C'mon, you didn't erase your center line mark! :p

Does your boat use the screw-out (Allen head) vent fitting? Is that how you checked it?

Could some black (or get a color) nylon webbing be used?

Probably one of the best things you can do. They often get clogged from topping off the tank or other reasons. They are typically only a short distance from the vent on the boat - whether it's integral to the fill or a stand-a-lone vent. Get rid of it. All you need to do is splice the input...

The skeg actually has very little, if any, to do with performance. Rotating the prop is what gives steering. It would help a tiny bit as a rudder if the prop wasn't spinning - but that's a rarity to need that function. Not having it will have no impact on normal operation. Really, the only...

Try broadening your search to simply aluminum welders. Or look for a machine shop. You can buy the skegs online. How bad is it?

Its' accessbile and available - pretty common item. Jump the switch - that will tell you, for sure, if the switch is bad or the wiring.