Search results

The 25” shaft Suzuki 300s on my Marlin are mounted one hole from the lowest setting and I have no problem with tight turns at speed, even with some trim.

Perhaps a seacock is open or not seated properly. If the plumbing going from an open seacock to a livewell or other output is broken or leaking, that would put water in the bilge.

Try asking around on sites like Hull Truth, just beware of scammers. Someone may be parting out a Marlin. I don’t think the windshield has changed since they started making them 30 years ago. Are you sure one of the marine glass retailers can’t fabricate it for you, expensive as it would be?

Top of console: 25” Bottom: 33.5” Sides: 13” Height: 12” I hope this helps. Plenty of room for two MFDs or one of a larger size. I don’t believe you could mount two MFDs larger than 12”.

I’ll be able to go out to my dock tomorrow and will measure the console dimensions. I believe your 2004 Marlin console is the same as my 2006. Do you need the dimensions for the area where the switches and Motor gauges are located as well? I have two 12” Garmin displays in the upper console and...

I think I like the shiny black acrylic because it matches the cockpit motif of my 2006 Marlin. The overhead hatch covers and the hatch leading below are all the same black acrylic. I’ve never had an issue with the reflective surfaces, but then polarized sunglasses probably help. The shiny black...

Definitely measure your own console. Also, consider black acrylic. I did mine with acrylic to match the access panels on the overhead storage boxes above the helm.

Two 12” displays fit nicely and work well in my Marlin.

These are great considerations and I’ll ask the right questions before I pull the bolsters and hand them over. I’ll have a choice of colors, but I was thinking I’d probably go with the original Grady off-white.

My Marlin finally popped a couple of seams on the passenger seat and needs repair. I took the cushion to a marine upholsterer and was quoted $150 to reupholster the bottom cushion. That sounds fairly reasonable (considering everything for a boat is expensive), but I thought I’d see what this...

That’s where mine is mounted and I have no complaints at all.

The transducer is mounted about 6” starboard of the keel. If you enlarge the picture, you can see it down low, just a touch off centerline. No prop interference at all.

I have the exact same setup on my Marlin. I still have the Airmar hooked in as a backup, but have the GT56 mounted on the transom. The GT56 is phenomenal and the 1243xsv displays give great down and sidescan visibility. The GT56 holds bottom at 45MPH (a little grainy at that speed, but quite...

The tower on my Marlin doesn’t make the boat “tippy,” but it does add drag/wind resistance. That said, it’s fun to run topside.

Where should I mount the Garmin Smartpump v2 for a Reactor 40 autopilot in my Marlin?

I spliced my 4-bank Pro Mariner AC cord since there is no existing receptacle to plug into. I think the only drawback to doing it that way is that by cutting off the plug I probably voided the warranty.

250s are fine, but folks who repower their Marlins tend to go with 300s.

When I bought a new radar, I toyed with the idea of mounting the dome above the surry top on my tower, but kept it on the hardtop because my sole use has been navigation during reduced visibility conditions and it works just fine there.

I subscribe to the theory that it’s best to get as close as possible to the high end of your RPM range with a light/normal load with optimum trim.

As a Marlin owner, I can say that I’ve never had water at the stern where the rear pump could get it. Any bilge water I accumulate always ends up where the forward bilge pump takes care of it. I keep my boat on a lift with the bow elevated and stern bilge stays dry. If I worried about taking on...