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I used sabiki mode on my old boat for years. It does work, the problem is your stern to the waves, it doesn’t really hold your position…only your heading, and you won’t get to fish because you will be jockeying the throttles the whole time, and that is definitely abusive to your lower units. I...

I have a Rhodan 96" on my Marlin. They are not perfect, but I like enough that I am buying a second as a spare when my first one goes down! As the captain of the boat, it lets me spend more time fishing and less time fidgeting with the anchor. My advice 1) buy the highest thrust you can 2) buy...

Just replaced the hubs on mine. It’s ridiculously simple. Power tech has videos online with instructions. I believe they also recommend replacing the rods every couple years as part of maintenance

That's very helpful, thanks. Let me poke around and see.

Looks like a factory wire. For the same reasons you mentioned, I am concerned to disconnect it. I may realize one day that it is something I need at the most inopportune moment. I will only leave the switch on briefly on rare occasions to run a aux fuel pump relay. I doubt whatever it is is...

These switches usually have a positive in (batt), positive out (load) and a Neg to complete the illumination. The positive out (load) is not required to illuminate.

Just strange. The other accessory switch did not have a load side wire connected to it. And why the large breaker? I will probably leave the load wire but jump it for the relay I want to run off it. I am running a relay for an aux fuel pump. I want the pump on two switches so I cannot...

Good thought. But not it. I would notice that if it was switched off. But I also confirmed by looking at the block. I can't find anything that turn onn/off from this switch

I have the manual. Doesn't mention what the ACC switches are for. Just says they are open for use. One was empty, this one had a 15a breaker and orange/blue wire connected to it. Can't find where it goes. The active wire (orange/blue on the bottom of switch) disappears into the Grady factory...

That's my guess. Was surprised to see a wire attached to it. Trying to figure where the wire goes to, if anything. The wire looks OEM. I need to tap the accessory switch to power a relay.

Thanks. Looks like a factory wire. 15a fuse sounds high for a GPS ant. Can't find anything it is/was attached to

Anybody have any clue what the accessory switch o the right of the washdown switch is? It has a 15a breaker an orange(blue stripe) wire attached to it. Had the boat now for 2 years and have no idea what it controls.

Absolutely, but I would like a way to pump the water out if it's high. Either way, an alarm goes in.

I was looking at the Rule 2000 GPH as my backup. So far, I had the boat 1.5 years. Haven't serviced the gen. Replaced a starter and a relay myself. Yard just did the oil change. This year I will probably try and crawl behind and look at servicing, air filter, impeller, etc. I am debating...

It's a pretty tricky run. Not as simple as going through a single stringer, it's zig zag and needs to pass through a compartment or two. Of course I would seal any holes I drill, especially through a structural element.

Yes. I have installed secondary bilge pumps before. I mount the pump low, and the switch 3 inches higher. I know some people like to mount the pump higher as well, believing that keeping it dry preserves it. But that's not my issue. I need to find a location to mount the pump. Where the...

Yes, that's exactly what I need to do. I just can't find the room, especially to route the thru-hull line. I spend nights offshore. So I really need the backup pump.

Has anyone added a second bilge pump in the stern? Seems a bit tight. Also, finding somewhere to route a new hose to a thru-hull fitting also seems challenging. I really would like to have a second "high water" bilge pump in the stern.

Yes, that's is where I am at right now. Separate breaker for 120v PSU. I will use an on/off/on selector switch to choose between the 12v and the 120v options. This way I can't accidentally have the breakers for both on at the same time. Seems like the easiest solution for my concerns regarding...

Yes, I would be curious to find another relay rated for continuous duty. Or a relay that "flips" a selector switch, I forget what those are called (as opposed to a relay that provides continuous power to the "trigger" when activated) EDIT: Okay, I remember, it's called a continuous duty...