2004 GW 209 Escape Trim Tabs

DUUUUUG

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2004 GW 209 Escape
Just bought this boat. Are trim tabs recommended for this size boat? About how much does it cost to have them installed?
 

seasick

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Trim tabs will help handling but are not absolutely needed. In my experience with that size boat, the greatest advantage is the ability to trim the side to side roll angle of the boat which is easily affected by passengers, load and winds. Although they will help get on plane quicker in some cases, that is not a big deal for me. Bennetts run about $500 for parts and then there is install. Budget $1000 with labor to be on the safe side. Note that the fancy add-ons like trim angle indication and auto-retract etc can push up the cost significantly
 

DUUUUUG

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After many other discussions and your comments, we decided to get them installed Monday, thanks...
 

Tucker

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What tabs you getting? I put on a set of those Bennett Sport tabs (bat wing design) and changed the whole boat. The boat reacted immediately to any trim command and made a huge difference in choppy seas. Cost was about $450, I did the install.
 

DUUUUUG

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Hey Tucker,
I got the Lenco 9x12 w/12volt actuators with 124SSR switch, I'll find out how good it rides in a month or so. I have been working with a guy out of Kilmarnock, VA to install the trim tabs and a T-Top for me. I figured I better higher someone to do what they do best. I can't wait to get out the Rappahanock to try her out. My eight year old saw a picture of the boat as he was walking past the computer and said...."She's a beauty".
 

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seasick

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Did your mechanic mention zincs for the tabs? Is the boat used in salt water?
 

Tabman

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seasick said:
Did your mechanic mention zincs for the tabs? Is the boat used in salt water?

Zinc anodes are recommended for boats that are kept in saltwater. My basic rule of thumb is that if the boat is kept in salt water long enough to require bottom paint then zincs must be installed. If the boat is kept out of the water, in dry storage or on a trailer, then the zincs can be installed as inexpensive "insurance" but not absolutely required.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine
 

seasick

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Tabman said:
seasick said:
Did your mechanic mention zincs for the tabs? Is the boat used in salt water?

Zinc anodes are recommended for boats that are kept in saltwater. My basic rule of thumb is that if the boat is kept in salt water long enough to require bottom paint then zincs must be installed. If the boat is kept out of the water, in dry storage or on a trailer, then the zincs can be installed as inexpensive "insurance" but not absolutely required.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

Thanks for the info Tom. In my neck of the woods ( NY Harbor) zincs are a must for anybody who stays in the water. We start to disagree on painting the tabs. What are your thoughts on paint? ( anti-fouling of course)
 

Tabman

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Seasick,

I prefer to paint the Trim Tabs when the boat is kept in salt water. The key is to prime them using the anti-fouling manufacturer's priming system for underwater metal and follow their instructions to the letter. Also make sure that the area where the zinc anode is mounted is not painted . The anode requires direct contact to the Trim Tab in order to work.

You may also paint the actuators (rams} and a primmer is not needed. Simply scuff the nylon a little bit and apply the anti-fouling. On a Bennett system the actuator shaft may be extended and its entire length painted. On a Lenco system the actuator must remain retracted while applying paint.

One note, Grady White has had us powder coating their Trim Tabs for quite a few years. The powder coat makes a good base for anti-fouling and you can skip the primmer if they are. Lightly abrade the surface and apply the anti-fouling. If you are attaching zinc anodes to a powder coated Trim Tab you should grind away the coating so there will be direct contact with the Trim Tab.

Tom
Bennett Marine
 

DUUUUUG

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The Rappahanock is Salt Water where we are and the boat will be kept out of the water on a trailer.
My mechanic says they are not required unless the boat is left in the water for an extended time
For my own knowledge, does anyone have any pictures showing where a zinc is attached and is a zinc required on each tab?
After reading various posts on this web site, I would like to say that the "knowledge transfer" (as my boss calls it) is second to none!
 

Tabman

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The easiest, and my in opinion the best way to install a zinc on transom mounted Trim Tabs is to drill a a hole in the center and put one half of an R-3 rudder zinc on the top of each one.

CIMG1650.jpg


If the Trim Tabs are mounted in pockets the zincs may have to be mounted on the "lip" on the trailing edge is there is no clearance between the top of the Trim Tab and the bottom of the hull.

Tom
Bennett Marine
 

DUUUUUG

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Would someone mind explaining what a zinc does?
I assume it is corrosion related since people seem to agree that zincs are only required if the boat is always/stored in the water.
 

Tabman

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DUUUUUG said:
Would someone mind explaining what a zinc does?
I assume it is corrosion related since people seem to agree that zincs are only required if the boat is always/stored in the water.

DUUUUG,

First, zincs are only really required when the boat is kept in saltwater. The reason for this is that salt water conducts electrical current very well due to the dissolved materials suspended in it. Fresh water does not conduct electrical current as well, therefore anodes are not required or can be of a different material than zinc such as magnesium.

What most people refer to as "zincs" are also called sacrificial anodes. Sacrificial is the key word.

Metals are classified by the "galvanic scale" (sometimes called the nobility scale). Simply put this means how quickly they are dissolved by electrical current in a conductive environment such as salt water.

Here is the scale;

Corros1.gif


At the top are magnesium and zinc, which are relatively easily attacked by the current, nearer the bottom is 304 Stainless Steel (that's what Trim Tabs are made out of) which is pretty resistant to it.

But left on its own stainless will be attacked by the current in saltwater and can be damaged. This damage can be accelerated by "stray current" in the water. Stray current can come from the boat if a piece of electrical equipment is improperly grounded, from a neighboring boat, or an improperly wired dock.

So, to protect the stainless (or other metal such as the aluminum in an outdrive or outboard lower unit) sacrificial anodes of a material more prone (or less noble) are attached to it. If there is a good electrical connection between the sacrificial anode and the metal it is protecting the anode will attract the current and be attacked first (sacrificed). As long as there enough mass in the anode and the electrical connection remains intact it will dissolve and not the more noble metal it is attached to.

This is a simplified explanation, but I think it should help you understand the idea.

As I mentioned in an earlier post , if the boat is not kept in saltwater there is usually no reason for zinc anodes to be fitted on the trim tabs. Some boats kept in fresh water will fit aluminum or magnesium anodes to the Trim Tabs as protection, but in my experience it amounts to just extra insurance.

I did not put zincs on my boat's Trim tabs since it was kept on a trailer and at most spent a couple of days in salt water. But I never kept it at a dock with other boats or with electrical service. Damage to the Trim Tabs can happen if the boat is exposed to stray current from a nearby boat or dock in a very short time depending on its severity (in some cases only a few days). In this instance zinc anodes would protect them.

I hope this is helpful,
Tom
Bennett Marine
 

DUUUUUG

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Tom,
Thanks for that very thorough explanation. That really helps.
Everything on a boat is so expensive. Including trim tabs. The R-3 Zincs I saw on the internet are under $10.
I think I will go ahead and put on the zincs.
Although the boat will be kept on a trailer, I will be leaving the boat in the water at the Marina somtimes for up to 3-4 days from time-to-time.
Thanks,
Doug