2005 / 225 Yamaha Motors

Bob Meola

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Have twins on my Grady. Noticed today that when I started them up I noticed water spitting out of exhaust. Port motor no water coming out of exhaust. Is this just condensation? or should I worry
 
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I don't understand what you saw. Were the motors in the water? If so, the majority of exhaust ( and cooling water) exits through the prop center. .
Was the telltale (pee stream) working well on both motors?
Was it a lot cooler that usual when this happened?
If it is temperature related (outside air temp and humidity), both motors should act the same after they warm up.
 
Have twins on my Grady. Noticed today that when I started them up I noticed water spitting out of exhaust. Port motor no water coming out of exhaust. Is this just condensation? or should I worry
It's a little confusing - the way you worded your question. I'm going to assume you meant to say the stbd motor was spitting water, while the port was not.

As Seasick asked, where exactly are you referring to when you say "exhaust"? However, the engine exhaust contains both gasses and water... the water you suck in has to get back out and it follows the same pathway as the gasses once it's past the powerhead. But because there are often two different outlet places for exhaust, you may see a variance in the air/water coming out at each place. This is simply due to gravity and pressure.
 
It's a little confusing - the way you worded your question. I'm going to assume you meant to say the stbd motor was spitting water, while the port was not.

As Seasick asked, where exactly are you referring to when you say "exhaust"? However, the engine exhaust contains both gasses and water... the water you suck in has to get back out and it follows the same pathway as the gasses once it's past the powerhead. But because there are often two different outlet places for exhaust, you may see a variance in the air/water coming out at each place. This is simply due to gravity and pressure.
 

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It is coming out of Black spout just below cowling
 
That could be normal or a sign of a blockage. That port is an exhaust bypass port I think and will allow exhaust water that has built up in the exhaust stack to drain out. Make sure all openings on the lower unit are clear and keep an eye on that situation.
This advice should be taken with the understanding that I have had my dose of vino for the day.
 
You may see a little. You can have the exhaust scoped when you drop the lowers.
 
It's not abnormal, at all, to see some spitting there. It's also not abnormal to see one engine do it and another not do it... or a certain engine do it at times, while other times it doesn't.

On another note... I can't quite remember the model year where the exhaust corrosion issue happened, but it was roughly around your model year. You should, at the very least, check into that. Googling for that will return plenty of results and, as noted above, take a good look when you drop the lower. This didn't affect my model so I can't offer any real life experience here - just that it's something to be aware of/check into.
 
The actual model years that have most of the corrosion issues span a few years but 2005 is as far I as am aware, one of the more likely years to have the problem. By late 2007, the problems seems to occur less often. I am sure that Yamaha knows what models and serial numbers correspond to the change in alloys used and what models and serial numbers were more prone to the problem. That said, they aren't stating that publicly..
 
Mechanic advised poppit valve may need to be replaced. Will check when I pull boat in December. He said okay to use boat
 
It could be a poppit valve. The poplit drains into the midsection just above the pressure relief exhaust. It should be closed at idle, but if it's stuck in the open position the exhaust pressure could push water out of the exhaust relief port.

The typical way that you learn about a stuck poppit is when the engine overheats at idle or low rpm but is fine when running faster.
 
The actual model years that have most of the corrosion issues span a few years but 2005 is as far I as am aware, one of the more likely years to have the problem. By late 2007, the problems seems to occur less often. I am sure that Yamaha knows what models and serial numbers correspond to the change in alloys used and what models and serial numbers were more prone to the problem. That said, they aren't stating that publicly..

You are correct. Serial number is the best way to determine whether the engines fall in range for susceptibility to the corrosion issue. I will be having both motors on my boat done this off-season as they are just beginning to show signs of corrosion when scoped a few weeks ago.
 
It could be a poppit valve. The poplit drains into the midsection just above the pressure relief exhaust. It should be closed at idle, but if it's stuck in the open position the exhaust pressure could push water out of the exhaust relief port.

The typical way that you learn about a stuck poppit is when the engine overheats at idle or low rpm but is fine when running faster.

If that is where the poppet vents to, I can see your point. I would expect though that as you increase the revs, even in neutral, the amount of spitting water would increase
 
2005 is definitely one of the bad years for exhaust rot. If you are not having them scoped on a regular basis I would start ASAP. Take it from someone who knows first hand. I lost 2 2004 F225s and I had them checked every other year.
I wish I had just proactively replaced the exhaust. It would have saved me 55K.
 
you can use a camera scope and take pictures of the mid sections. if you see shiny spots or white corrosion, it has started. once the black coating is compromised the metal gets corroded quickly.
 
My understanding a while back reading about the exhaust rot was somewhere early to mid year 2006ish is when they started production with the new alloy's.
 
"I wish I had just proactively replaced the exhaust. It would have saved me 55K."

I did exactly this for my 2006 F250's almost two years ago. I was worried sick about having to replace two expensive engines unplanned. So, I had the procedure done at 1,300 hours. End result for me was the exhaust manifolds were old but quite fine. Cost me about $3K per engine but now I can sleep better at night. 1,800 hours now and running strong. My mid sections are the newest part of the engines now!

The condition of the Original Poster (Bob Meola) points to the Poppit Valve IMHO. If no overheat alarms are sounding I think he's good to go. And, yes, I agree - in this off season, have a qualified service shop do a good look up the leg when the lowers are off.
 
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That whole corrosion thing is very interesting...I had 2002 F225's and I repowered last year after I threw a rod at 2000 hours...never had corrosion issues...my buddy has one of the motors on his boat now.
 
That whole corrosion thing is very interesting...I had 2002 F225's and I repowered last year after I threw a rod at 2000 hours...never had corrosion issues...my buddy has one of the motors on his boat now.
I don't think the corrosion problem was a big issue with 2002 model year. The 2005-2006 seem to have the majority of issues. Somewhere along the time line, the alloy used got changed and the problems started to show up.