OK, my mechanical steering on my 208 has been iffy for a few years
It has leaked oil for a long time (years) but not recently since it probably didn't have any lubricant left. It started to bind and make clunking sounds when turned to the limits. So, I finally replaced it last week. I am posting to let other know that much to my delight, I was able to replace the box without having to disconnect the steering cable at the motor, a task that may or may not have required the motor to be moved (and I wasn't going to attempt that).
Of course many may comment that I should have replaced the steering cable but I figured that if I could change the box without moving the motor, I could replace the cable later if needed also without moving the motor.
The trick was to unbolt the wheel, tilt mechanism and mounting bolts for the steering box ( the mounting plate can stay attached to the dash) and carefully pull the box out from behind the dash until it was 'clear' of the dash but still connected to the steering cable.
Now all I had to do was remove the steering cable bushing locking bolts and using a lever or wrench , rotate the steering shaft so that the cable 'unscrewed itself out of the steering box. It only took a few turns and the cable came free.
Grab the new box and feed the cable in while also turning the shaft in the opposite direction. The cable will get pulled in and when seated, reinstall the locking bolts. Now wiggle the assembly into place and slide into the dash hole. Put the bolts back, the tilt mechanism (if equipped) from behind and the wheel.
A few notes: I had to remove the 12v accessory outlet to gain enough clearance to drop the box down. Some wires had to be manhandled to clear the cable tube. The cable tube (16 inch or so piece) was installed before the steering cable was wound into the box.
I was unable to remove the wheel without a three legged puller AND a lot more force than I had expected! ( The wheel had been removed before and wasn't corroded on, it was just really tight)
The boat is still on the hard so I can't comment on the end result yet but the motor does turn smoothly and doesn't stick or make the clunking sounds.
One other thing I learned. I bought a 'brand new' Searstar NFB box that was listed as a 'takeoff'. I didn't know what that was and learned that a Takeoff is a new part that was removed form a new boat. In this case, the buyer bought a boat with mechanical steering and had the dealer upgrade to a hydraulic system.
The down side is that not all the bolts that would be in a new kit were included but since I was removing the same part, I had the hardware. No instructions at all but the Seastar web sire had those available for download (and I needed them especially to remove the tilt mechanism!).
The up side is that the part was tad less that half the cost of a new in box unit.
It felt good to finally get something, anything, done on the boat. Still a lot to do on her and myotherboat.
It has leaked oil for a long time (years) but not recently since it probably didn't have any lubricant left. It started to bind and make clunking sounds when turned to the limits. So, I finally replaced it last week. I am posting to let other know that much to my delight, I was able to replace the box without having to disconnect the steering cable at the motor, a task that may or may not have required the motor to be moved (and I wasn't going to attempt that).Of course many may comment that I should have replaced the steering cable but I figured that if I could change the box without moving the motor, I could replace the cable later if needed also without moving the motor.
The trick was to unbolt the wheel, tilt mechanism and mounting bolts for the steering box ( the mounting plate can stay attached to the dash) and carefully pull the box out from behind the dash until it was 'clear' of the dash but still connected to the steering cable.
Now all I had to do was remove the steering cable bushing locking bolts and using a lever or wrench , rotate the steering shaft so that the cable 'unscrewed itself out of the steering box. It only took a few turns and the cable came free.
Grab the new box and feed the cable in while also turning the shaft in the opposite direction. The cable will get pulled in and when seated, reinstall the locking bolts. Now wiggle the assembly into place and slide into the dash hole. Put the bolts back, the tilt mechanism (if equipped) from behind and the wheel.
A few notes: I had to remove the 12v accessory outlet to gain enough clearance to drop the box down. Some wires had to be manhandled to clear the cable tube. The cable tube (16 inch or so piece) was installed before the steering cable was wound into the box.
I was unable to remove the wheel without a three legged puller AND a lot more force than I had expected! ( The wheel had been removed before and wasn't corroded on, it was just really tight)
The boat is still on the hard so I can't comment on the end result yet but the motor does turn smoothly and doesn't stick or make the clunking sounds.
One other thing I learned. I bought a 'brand new' Searstar NFB box that was listed as a 'takeoff'. I didn't know what that was and learned that a Takeoff is a new part that was removed form a new boat. In this case, the buyer bought a boat with mechanical steering and had the dealer upgrade to a hydraulic system.
The down side is that not all the bolts that would be in a new kit were included but since I was removing the same part, I had the hardware. No instructions at all but the Seastar web sire had those available for download (and I needed them especially to remove the tilt mechanism!).
The up side is that the part was tad less that half the cost of a new in box unit.
It felt good to finally get something, anything, done on the boat. Still a lot to do on her and myotherboat.
