Just purchased an 02 228 Seafarer with the Grady Drive (Gil bracket). It is currently bottom painted. Dont know much about bottom paint but I need to have another coat put on. The boat will be lift kept. The main reason for painting is cosmetic, the current paint is old. I have heard to stay away from paints with copper because they will react with the aluminum Grady Drive and cause corrosion. Can anybody offer input here? How can I tell what is currently on the boat, and if it is the wrong/right type? The previous owner is not sure.
228 Seafarer, Bottom paint on Grady Drive?
- Thread starter Wreck Room
- Start date
yes.the type of paint does matter.i had my boat painted by the service facility that took care of it,they used the incorrect paint on the bracket,they used regular bottom paint.my bracket was completley corroded.it had to be replaced.the proper paint to use is trilux.
my 1994 228G had its gil marin bracket painted with copper bottom paint. Like you, that happened before I bought the boat. I never had any problems so kept painting it with copper paint. I had a small amount of corrosion around the drain plug but not sure I can attribute that to the copper paint. I did end up grinding that spot down to bare metal and priming and painting with the interlux aluminum friendly paints.
The brackets are heavily plastic powder coated. Since plastic is a good insulator the copper can't react with the aluminum. Conversely I have seen engine's painted with copper (lower unit part that sticks in the water on all grady's) and definitely saw a problem with corrosion caused by the copper.
If its just cosmetic you might consider getting the paint stripped and reverting back to au natural. You'll get better performance and mileage with a smooth unpainted bottom.
The brackets are heavily plastic powder coated. Since plastic is a good insulator the copper can't react with the aluminum. Conversely I have seen engine's painted with copper (lower unit part that sticks in the water on all grady's) and definitely saw a problem with corrosion caused by the copper.
If its just cosmetic you might consider getting the paint stripped and reverting back to au natural. You'll get better performance and mileage with a smooth unpainted bottom.
Is there any corrosion on the bracket now?
If yes, does it look like pits or white powder?
Did the previous owner keep it moored in water?
Is there any corrosion on the engine brackets, if yes, pits or white powder?
Does the drive and motor brackets have anodes, how many, and what is their condition?
If yes, does it look like pits or white powder?
Did the previous owner keep it moored in water?
Is there any corrosion on the engine brackets, if yes, pits or white powder?
Does the drive and motor brackets have anodes, how many, and what is their condition?
I don't put bottom paint on my engine or metal parts . Instead, I use a metal primer (potasium chromate) and an anti-fouling paint intended for aluminum.
Plastic transduces get transducer paint.
One area that I probably screwed up was painting a portion of a side through hull chromed fitting when I moved the water line up 3/4 inch. That fitting corroded and the chrome plate started to peel. I can't be sure it was the bottom paint or just the age but next time, I wont get bottom paint on through hulls.
Plastic transduces get transducer paint.
One area that I probably screwed up was painting a portion of a side through hull chromed fitting when I moved the water line up 3/4 inch. That fitting corroded and the chrome plate started to peel. I can't be sure it was the bottom paint or just the age but next time, I wont get bottom paint on through hulls.
plymouthgrady
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I would start w/ a metal primer and then use Tri-lux 33 for the anti-fouling. If you use a copper based paint it will eventually pit.
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Thanks for the input. It does not look like I have any corrosion yet. I called Gil and they said there is a very thick coating on the bracket and not to worry about it. I am going to keep an eye on it and hope for the best.
No coating lasts forever, no matter how thick it is. All eventually loose adhesion since moisture penetrates the coating. The lower engine mount bolt holes, motor bracket contact points, anode thread holes, drain plug threads, are already exposed from day one installation, very likely.