265 transom cap repair

[bac0701]

any of you guys repair the transom cap on a 265? Wondering whats needed and if its doable myself. Id like to glass it over. I bought it in august and knew i had to do it when I bought it. Today I was removing the silicon that he was using for the time being and saw some good corrosion. Transom is solid when I bounce on them. Id just like to get it done prior to the spring run.

 

[Lt.Mike]

any of you guys repair the transom cap on a 265? Wondering whats needed and if its doable myself. Id like to glass it over. I bought it in august and knew i had to do it when I bought it. Today I was removing the silicon that he was using for the time being and saw some good corrosion. Transom is solid when I bounce on them. Id just like to get it done prior to the spring run.

Your talking about the aluminum trim that wraps over the edge?
I replaced my 1" with 2" aluminum angle through bolting it and using double stainless fender washers in the motor well to back it up.
Not sure if this helps but here are some shots.
The new angle is much thicker and actually added some additional rigidity to the top of the transom.
The top of the transom was cleaned up with a grinder, new epoxy laid down, sanded smooth and a wide strip of white traction tape was applied with the angle piece over it. 3M 5200 was used liberally as well.

Keep in mind that those little screw holes securing the top of that trim is responsible for 90% of all wet transoms in Gradys.
That's where rain water gets in.
3M 5200 is your friend, can't use too much of it! :wink:

Mike

 

[SkunkBoat]

To do it right you will have to remove the motors. That is the hardest part.
Forget the trim.
There is nothing good or necessary about the trim.
The trim is there because it speeds production. They just cover the seam of the cap and hull with a rubrail and transom trim.
It would cost another day if they glassed it and matched the gelcoat.

Glass it over and paint it. No 5200, No screws, No water intrusion ever again.

 

[Lt.Mike]

My motor is a DT225, wasn’t that hard to pull and replace.

 

[SkunkBoat]

just that motors require a lift and two motors means you have to set one down somewhere...which means you have to disconnect everything...

I glassed over the edge when I poured a new transom on my V20. Use Epoxy and glass cloth, maybe 6 or 8 ounce so it will conform to the edges and look smooth. Some lightweight filler mixed with epoxy and fair it out nice and smooth.
Use wide clear packaging tape as masking for your lines. peel it off before the epoxy sets and you will have nice clean lines.

I painted it with white rustoleum oil paint but you could try to match paint if necessary.

The end of this video shows it
https://youtu.be/Oe_ZmPOUCNc

 

[bac0701]

great video skunk, nice work there. I definitely don't intend on throwing another aluminum cap on there. Id be glassing it for sure Mike. I'm guessing id have to use some kind of filler bc it looks like theres a little lip.

 

[SkunkBoat]

hey bac0701,
I too just got a 265 express. Absolutely love the ride and the layout. Where do you dock in NJ? I'm in PtPleasantBeach at the RR bridge.

Already dealt with a pump in the oil reservoir too.
That sealed hatch is just dumb. One round access port. can't realistically do anything in there with pumps and oil tanks. should be liftoff or hinged hatch that has overboard drain channels. Also don't really like having three round ports in the motor well with pop out lids...

Had some charging problems and thats leading to a reconfiguration of battery switches as soon as the weather warms up a little.
Hate that you have to remove bins to get to them....stupid...

 

[drbatts]

hey bac0701,

That sealed hatch is just dumb. One round access port. can't realistically do anything in there with pumps and oil tanks. should be liftoff or hinged hatch that has overboard drain channels. Also don't really like having three round ports in the motor well with pop out lids...

Had some charging problems and thats leading to a reconfiguration of battery switches as soon as the weather warms up a little.
Hate that you have to remove bins to get to them....stupid...

Forum member EPPE put hinges on the rear deck plate of his 265 to facilitate easier access to the pumps etc. There should be pictures on an old post somewhere. I definitely don't miss having to pull that plate to service anything in there.

Be gentle with those removable bins too, as they can be very difficult to find replacements.

 

[bac0701]

skunk im in brick at traders cove right next to the mantoloking rd bridge. Ive seen you out there a couple times. I agree. I did one oil tank motor and both of the filters over the summer. I learned after the first time doing it (though i should have changed the other filter when I was down there the first time :bang ) I'm learning the boat for sure. A big jump from my old 22 CC aqua sport. No other issues nock on wood so far. I talked to a buddy and emailed grady this morning. They sent me the vinyl replacement they started using a few years later. I Think a friend is going to help me with this this winter. and ill throw the cap on top to make it look neat. ill be sure to update you guys.

 

[Lt.Mike]

The photos I posted are when I replaced the outboard on my boat. I pulled the old OB, rolled the lift back into my barn and hung it from a rafter next to the one that was to replace it.
While the engine was off it took advantage of that to clean up the transom before I mounted the new motor.
I was actually out by the R/R bridge on the dog walk beach an hour or so ago.
Before that my daughter and I tried for tog in the inlet. Cabin fever is setting in I guess.
I regularly dump up river as we are located in Farmingdale. We live along the river where it runs fresh and pull trout from our backyard.

BTW, what’s up with the obstruction bouy placed in the middle of the inlet near Carlson’s Corner?
Did something go down there? Did I miss something?
Mike

 

[SkunkBoat]

Forum member EPPE put hinges on the rear deck plate of his 265 to facilitate easier access to the pumps etc. There should be pictures on an old post somewhere. I definitely don't miss having to pull that plate to service anything in there.

Be gentle with those removable bins too, as they can be very difficult to find replacements.

mine has hinges but it was sealed. I cut the seal to do oil pump repairs, didn't reseal it but...when not sealed, salt drips on oil pumps....
Just a really bad design. The overboard drains are right there! They could have formed a channel for the lid to sit in and plumbed it to the drains. In the long run it wouldn't have cost them any more than a round port and sealant. Looks like they did the same dumb thing on the 33s. :-|

Hinge screws have let water into lid coring...

Already chipped an edge off one of the bins.

 

[SkunkBoat]

BTW, what’s up with the obstruction bouy placed in the middle of the inlet near Carlson’s Corner?
Did something go down there? Did I miss something?
Mike

dunno? been on blocks since December

 

[Fishtales]

I think GW uses a plastic or phenolic piece not instead of aluminum. You still have to do all the work to glass and seal it. Then you can bond the piece if desired. As stated it is there as a bump stop and because it is quick to install. I think it is the worst design option out there. Why they do it is beyond me considering the price of the boat.

 

[Lt.Mike]

BTW, what’s up with the obstruction bouy placed in the middle of the inlet near Carlson’s Corner?
Did something go down there? Did I miss something?
Mike

dunno? been on blocks since December

I looked further into it. Lots of people have seen it an steered clear but no one has a clue why it’s there.
Not wishing to hijack this thread any further I opened a thread on the hulltruth.
Here’s a link,
https://www.thehulltruth.com/northeast/ ... ement.html

 

[eppem]

Best thing we ever did was hing that back access. There should be an old thread about it somewhere. If not I can take pics as my boat isn't covered. Its not 100% waterproof, but the access to the bildge and all the components makes up for it.