330 Express Helm Pump Replacement

Viking88rd

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After complete diagnostics, helm pump needs replacement (Seastar tilt helm 2.4
Considering doing the install. Mechanically inclined, but no mechanic. Im being counseled that the replacement is pretty easy. Will likely have to remove the electronics console in order to get at back of the pump. Has anyone done this repair? Thoughts & input appreciated!
 

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Are you sure the unit is bad? If not leaking, you might have air pockets or contamination that if keeping the ball valves from completely closing. I suppose that replacing it is reasonable since just removing the old unit can be a task.
The first two challenges are removing the steering wheel without loosing any teeth:) and them removing the tilt mechanism. Actually removing the unit from the dash should be simple.
All the old fluid should be drained out and replaced with new. Don't overtighten the hose fittings. Bleeding is a bit tricky and having a second person help is a good idea' Read, understand and follow the instructions for filling and bleeding
 
Bleeding is a bit tricky and having a second person help is a good idea' Read, understand and follow the instructions for filling and bleeding
Definitively! And the instructions are clear and extensive.

I would add; get the fill adapter, not expensive, very helpful and avoid making a mess.
I guess you have a hydraulic pump for the autopilot, then it may be a bit more difficult, but never bleeded one with AP, only with helm pump and pistons.
Chris
 
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Definitively! And the instructions are clear and extensive.

I would add; get the fill adapter, not expensive, very helpful and avoid making a mess.
I guess you have a hydraulic pump for the autopilot, then it may be a bit more difficult, but never bleeded one with AP, only with helm pump and pistons.
Chris
Don't have auto pilot, but do have the electric assist steering pump. Standard equipment on the 330. Basically power steering.
 
Don't have auto pilot, but do have the electric assist steering pump. Standard equipment on the 330. Basically power steering.
Ok, then replacing the hydraulic oil may be a bit more complicated due the hydraulic pump, but not sure about that.
Bleeded or replaced many times the oil on systems without electric pumps and it's a simple task if in two persons.
As seasick wrote, helm pumps usually don't go bad except the seal on the steering wheel attachment bolt, but this can be replaced.
Depending on what your problem is i would first bleed it to see if this fix your problem, if the old oil is murky or rust color then refill till oil is clear.
If whitish because of water then there may be internal damage due to rust/corrosion and you better replace the whole helm pump what cost about 800$ plus nerves or money for a tech.
Chris
 
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Pretty simple install, from what I remember (it's been a few years. I think it required moving the electrical panel in the cabin (4 screws) to access the back and I know I needed a second set of hands to hold the back half of the bolts in the cabin while I worked the front half at the helm. But, as mentioned, make sure your diagnosis is correct, they rarely go bad. I changed mine because it was wobbly (the bushings were worn) but the unit worked perfect. To get wheel off, take off the nut almost all the way have someone pulling on the wheel while you hit the nut with a soft blow hammer, it'll pop right off.
 
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If you don't leave the nut on a bit when you pull the wheel, you will need a dentist:)
I usually end up using a puller. I don't like wacking the shaft with a hammer. I suppose that isn't a big deal if you are replacing the helm but are you replacing the tilt mechanism? If not be careful wacking the shaft
 
If you don't leave the nut on a bit when you pull the wheel, you will need a dentist:)
I usually end up using a puller. I don't like wacking the shaft with a hammer. I suppose that isn't a big deal if you are replacing the helm but are you replacing the tilt mechanism? If not be careful wacking the shaft
As long as the nut is on and you are using a dead blow, soft hammer you should never have a problem and the nut will prevent the need for the dentist. I never get past 2 whacks and it pops off, easy peasy.
 
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If you don't leave the nut on a bit when you pull the wheel, you will need a dentist:)
I usually end up using a puller. I don't like wacking the shaft with a hammer. I suppose that isn't a big deal if you are replacing the helm but are you replacing the tilt mechanism? If not be careful wacking the shaft
Had planned on replacing the tilt. Current helm pump/tilt have been upgraded. Not sure if existing tilt will fit/work with the new pump. Good question because the existing tilt seems fine.
 
There are other things that could be "repaired" on a helm. The shuttle valve can get stuck or blocked and there are springs and balls that stick.
IMO, get a new one.

You have to buy a Classic tilt that includes the tilt. You can't just buy a pump. The shaft on a tilt pump is different.

Also, the new pump will be threaded for ORB-5 fittings, not 1/4 NPT. It may come with two orb elbow fittings for the port/stbd ports.. You will need a new compensation port fitting. The old one will not work because its 1/4 NPT thread.

ORB fittings are a great imptovement because you can align the elbow fittings.

You should bleed the whole system and put in new fluid. Leaving the old fluid with a brand new pump is just stupid.