When installing my new windlass I noticed that my '05 Islander is partially prewired. I have, what looks to be, a red and a black #8 wire that run into the anchor rope locker. Even the wire crimps are already there. I need to know their source so I can concet the up/down switch and circut breaker. Anybody know where they come from?
Anchor Windlass Wiring
- Thread starter dduflo
- Start date
I have the same question, as I found the same in my 265. I would like someday to get a windlass set up as well.
See if those two heavy wires end up at the transom area by the batts. It did on mine, on the port side, but later models may be different, perhaps at the bridge.
The 16 awg control wires end up at the bridge power panel. Follow the colors.
The 16 awg control wires end up at the bridge power panel. Follow the colors.
On our 2002 Islander, these wires to the bow were not connected at either end. The aft end of the wires were coiled up and stuck up under the console, in the outboard corner. Had to use a light, spot them, then pull down.
When this was all the "pre-wire" I found, I asked the factory where they go the power from. They indicated that they simply tapped in to the normal power under the helm console.
I found this to be a poor response, or at least an accurate response to a poorly-designed system. The main feeder breaker aft for the power to the console is only 40-amps, and the wiring is designed for that load. To add a windlass, with a 25-amp or 40-amp breaker of its own, to that distribution is just an invitation to have your electronics all restart when you use the windlass.
I installed a Horizon 500, and it has a 25-amp breaker. I installed a completely separate feed from the house bank aft, with a 40-amp breaker aft, to bring power forward. The windlass breaker and control switch are at the helm, and then I used the pre-installed wiring from the helm to the bow to supply the windlass.
Here is a photo that shows the breaker just under the lower edge of the console, below the switch panel. The control toggle switch can be seen in the storage bin to starboard, just forward of the cup holder. (Note: Old photo, before the repower in 2005 and the two major electronics upgrades since then as well.)
When this was all the "pre-wire" I found, I asked the factory where they go the power from. They indicated that they simply tapped in to the normal power under the helm console.
I found this to be a poor response, or at least an accurate response to a poorly-designed system. The main feeder breaker aft for the power to the console is only 40-amps, and the wiring is designed for that load. To add a windlass, with a 25-amp or 40-amp breaker of its own, to that distribution is just an invitation to have your electronics all restart when you use the windlass.
I installed a Horizon 500, and it has a 25-amp breaker. I installed a completely separate feed from the house bank aft, with a 40-amp breaker aft, to bring power forward. The windlass breaker and control switch are at the helm, and then I used the pre-installed wiring from the helm to the bow to supply the windlass.
Here is a photo that shows the breaker just under the lower edge of the console, below the switch panel. The control toggle switch can be seen in the storage bin to starboard, just forward of the cup holder. (Note: Old photo, before the repower in 2005 and the two major electronics upgrades since then as well.)
Here's my version of all of this windlass stuff....
http://pamandgene.idleplay.net/Boating/The_Boat/The_Windlass_Project.htm
http://pamandgene.idleplay.net/Boating/The_Boat/The_Windlass_Project.htm
Thanks for the help. I finally found the source end of the windlass wiring but it wasn't easy. I aree with Ocnslr and will run from the battery vs the junction under the dash. Can't believe the price of copper wire. Gone up way more than I realized.
dduflo said:
Don't forget that you must install a breaker aft, within three feet of the source. I used a 40-amp surface mount BlueSea Systems breaker.
By the way, I used that source when I converted the head to electric. It has a big current draw as well, so having it on a separate feed is good. Not too often that someone is flushing the head at the same time we are raising the anchor...
