bleeding hydraulic steering lines

[clarabelle26]

I have a 1993 225hp Yamaha on my Seafarer22, Any tips on bleeding air from hydraulic steering lines?

 

[striped bass]

The steering manual that comes with the boat provides instructions. General procedure is to attach a tube to the plastic steering fluid bottle and screw in the threaded end to the opening on the steering column. Turn the engine full left and then back to full right and back to center to push air out and fluid into the hydraulic system. Grady customer service at your local dealer as well as corporate can also provide assistance. This is a fairly simple procedure.

 

[catch22]

Assuming you have Seastar, (Teleflex) steering.

"FILLING & PURGING THE SYSTEM" -

http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/OUTBOARD ... urge.htm&1

I've done it a few times and I don't like their method of attaching the bottle to helm. Imo, it's too messy. I found a small, plastic funnel that fits the threaded "fill" opening in the helm perfectly. Just have to maintain a small amount in the funnel, to ensure the helm is full. You don't want the fluid level to run low, or you risk introducing air into the sytem. When I was done, I would use clean paper towels to carefully absorb what was left in the funnel. You really should have a second person helping you. One person steers and keeps the oil level up, the other does the bleeding on the cylinder.

Also.... the question is, why does it have air in the first place?
You might, (probably) have a leak. Typically, the end seals, (glands) on the steering cylinder develop leaks. When these seals leak, they not only lose fluid, (under pressure) air can be sucked in as well. Look for any signs of leaking, where the shaft enters the cylinder, (both sides). Have someone slowly turn the steering one way, then the other. Look for a build up, (film) of fluid on the shaft. You might even see a drop or two squeeze out. If there is a leak, you'll want to replace those end seals before bleeding.

Replacing the seals is usually not a big deal, provided you can remove one of the black aluminum end brackets, on either side. You actually only need to remove one end bracket, to remove the steering cylinder, but you should remove and grease both. Sometimes those aluminum end brackets can be frozen in place... and that can be a b!cth.

Seal kits are available at many boating stores, (especially on-line). They can usually be ordered with, or without a spanner wrench to remove the threaded end rings. You need to know what model cylinder you have. There should be an ID tag on the cylinder. Example - "HC-5345".

Here's a link for a seal kit, (you might find it cheaper somewhere else) - https://www.surplusunlimited.com/Mercha ... _Code=70-1

And fluid - https://www.surplusunlimited.com/Mercha ... e=2300-130

 

[CJBROWN]

I use the funnel method on the helm too. Plus a length of bleed hose long enough to reach back up to that funnel. As long as your fluid isn't contaminated, you can swivel back and forth on each bleeder 'till all the air is out, simply pumping the fluid back through the system. With a short bleed line it's hard to determine when you've got all the air out.

Makes a funky job super easy.

 

[catch22]

I use the funnel method on the helm too. Plus a length of bleed hose long enough to reach back up to that funnel. As long as your fluid isn't contaminated, you can swivel back and forth on each bleeder 'till all the air is out, simply pumping the fluid back through the system. With a short bleed line it's hard to determine when you've got all the air out.

Makes a funky job super easy.

The last time I did it, I didn't like the looks of the fluid. Dark, stained and crappy looking. This was on a 15 year old cylinder. I here what your saying, (especially because of how expensive their fluid is) but I wasn't comfortable with re-using it. It might be worth filtering it into a clean container and then re-use it?

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

Best way is 3 containers

2 for both the lines and 1 for the helm

i crack both bleed lines on cylinder and stick them in the containers with half oil

use the 3rd container for helm, when she gets 3/4 empty i fill her up

i can do this in about 5 mins and by myself

it is the best way i found out how do do it

also you only turn the wheel one way and not both, or you will suck air!!

 

[catch22]

Best way is 3 containers

2 for both the lines and 1 for the helm

i crack both bleed lines on cylinder and stick them in the containers with half oil

use the 3rd container for helm, when she gets 3/4 empty i fill her up

i can do this in about 5 mins and by myself

it is the best way i found out how do do it

also you only turn the wheel one way and not both, or you will suck air!!

That sounds like a good idea.

If both cylinder bleed hoses are submerged in a container of fluid, there's less chance of sucking any air, if you do accidentally turn the wrong way.

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Best way is 3 containers

2 for both the lines and 1 for the helm

i crack both bleed lines on cylinder and stick them in the containers with half oil

use the 3rd container for helm, when she gets 3/4 empty i fill her up

i can do this in about 5 mins and by myself

it is the best way i found out how do do it

also you only turn the wheel one way and not both, or you will suck air!!

Does this method applies to a power steering teleflex with an auto pilot pump installed?

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

yes, but the auto pilot must be bleed first

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

yes, but the auto pilot must be bleed first

O.K, now you got me. How do you bleed the A/P pump first? It is connected in line with the power steering pump.

 

[BobP]

I don't understand, once you add a hose at cylinder, there is automatically a slug of air in it, unless you push out the slug into an already filled container. Seems more fluid is needed this way

Go one direction only never stopping or reversing direction at wheel then close valve when at end of travel, then open other valve and do the same going the otehr way with wheel, going all the way if you do this twice over, I bet all the fluid have been changed out.

You can replenish the helm container with what comes out at the cylinder unless you want to use new or believe water is in there

And never let the supply at helm drop out otherwise new air will be admitted into system.

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

matters what auto pilot , lol

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

JIT, AP28.

 

[clarabelle26]

Thanks, I think a have a small leak on seals

Assuming you have Seastar, (Teleflex) steering.

"FILLING & PURGING THE SYSTEM" -

http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/OUTBOARD ... urge.htm&1

I've done it a few times and I don't like their method of attaching the bottle to helm. Imo, it's too messy. I found a small, plastic funnel that fits the threaded "fill" opening in the helm perfectly. Just have to maintain a small amount in the funnel, to ensure the helm is full. You don't want the fluid level to run low, or you risk introducing air into the sytem. When I was done, I would use clean paper towels to carefully absorb what was left in the funnel. You really should have a second person helping you. One person steers and keeps the oil level up, the other does the bleeding on the cylinder.

Also.... the question is, why does it have air in the first place?
You might, (probably) have a leak. Typically, the end seals, (glands) on the steering cylinder develop leaks. When these seals leak, they not only lose fluid, (under pressure) air can be sucked in as well. Look for any signs of leaking, where the shaft enters the cylinder, (both sides). Have someone slowly turn the steering one way, then the other. Look for a build up, (film) of fluid on the shaft. You might even see a drop or two squeeze out. If there is a leak, you'll want to replace those end seals before bleeding.

Replacing the seals is usually not a big deal, provided you can remove one of the black aluminum end brackets, on either side. You actually only need to remove one end bracket, to remove the steering cylinder, but you should remove and grease both. Sometimes those aluminum end brackets can be frozen in place... and that can be a b!cth.

Seal kits are available at many boating stores, (especially on-line). They can usually be ordered with, or without a spanner wrench to remove the threaded end rings. You need to know what model cylinder you have. There should be an ID tag on the cylinder. Example - "HC-5345".

Here's a link for a seal kit, (you might find it cheaper somewhere else) - https://www.surplusunlimited.com/Mercha ... _Code=70-1

And fluid - https://www.surplusunlimited.com/Mercha ... e=2300-130

 

[wilson]

easy peasy lemon squeezy. go buy alot of clear plastic tubing that fits the cylinder bleeds. hook up the bottle to the helm with the over priced plastic fitting. cut a small hole in the bottom of the bottle (rig up the bottle to free your hands) run the tubing from both bleed screws up to the helm and stick them in the hole you cut. allow them to be above the surface of the fluid in the bottle (important) now open both bleeds, go to the helm and turn the wheel each way until your arm gets tired. as the fluid comes back to the bottle the air bubbles (very tiny) will hit surface pressure and escape. then the fluid goes back into the system and back out again and again. then just tighten the screws and carefully disconnect the hose and drain fluis into another bottle with out a hole in it. :wink: