boat does not idle

[dan5611]

i have a 1989 sailfish with 1998 twin 200 ocean pros at which time runs fine but does not idle and keeps stalling every time i try to dock. any ideas what the problem may be.

 

[BobP]

Both motors or just one?

 

[dan5611]

Both motors or just one?

both checked fuel water seperators and no water in them go to shift in reverse and stall

 

[BobP]

If no work was done prior at the mechanical controls, or elsewhere

I was thinking the neutral start safety swicth(es) in helm is/are shot, or common kill switch.
or it's you fuel (what other commonality is left ?)

If you are using ethanol, you will not see water in fuel.
Is fuel color in separator normal or darker (if ethanol)?

You can check fuel quailty by getting a 3 or 6 gal standard fuel tank and hook up directly to one motor, then see what happens after a few gallons of use.

When they switched to ethanol many years ago up here, I recall not one but both 200 Johnies stumbling when in gear idling back to marina from inlet. So fuel quality can screw things up may only see at idle in gear and top speed.

 

[dlavoy]

My guess is the shift Interrupt switch. Are you shifting slowly or just moving straight into reverse? Has the boat been sitting a while ?
If so it may work free with use, I had one work itself out...I doubt its a water issue. You may also see what you rpms are at idle you may need to just raise that and cure the problem.

 

[DaleH]

Very doubtful it is the shift interrupt ... I've only seen one fail in my life and it was 'sticky' due to over and MIS application of BoeShield T-9 spray, which should NEVER be applied to any moving part IMHO. Static parts - OK, but nothing that moves.

That puppy sounds like she needs a tune up; first performing a sync & link, then a tune of the idle circuit of each of the carbs in sequence. After all 6 are adjusted, if you need to adjust 1, you need to go back over ALL 6 again, as V6s (or V4s) of any brand are always tuned together in sequence, as they are inter-related. You then need to take it out and put her up on plane and then bring her back to idle quickly ... if she stalls ... yup, it needs a fine tune again. Also check your idle speed in gear.

These tests cannot be adequately done using muffs, they must be done IN the water. Anyone who tells you otherwise got lucky at best and is a fool at worst. I would also not attempt this without the factory OEM service manual. But if you had one, or access to one, they're easy to do yourself. Proper instruction and sequencing is the key here.

Myself? I would not trust a Clymer or Seloc "1 size fits all" :-| service manual ...

BTW, the Neutral-Start safety switch only prevents cranking while in gear - this is not your problem ... you most likely have a lean stall and I'm not surprised given how cables can form slack over the years, as well as motors may require a re-tune periodically.

 

[dan5611]

What about the online fuel filters that are in the motor compartment

 

[dlavoy]

Check out this link, similar issue, http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=269682&page=1 , and another one http://www.thehulltruth.com/a1outboard- ... utral.html
Google "200 ocean pro stalls when shifting", there is alot of info out there.

Much cheaper fix than Carb Rebuilds and pretty easy to eliminate before spending too many $$$

 

[gradydriver]

The slow jets in the carb are clogged...you need to replace the slow (idle) jets...but while you are there....replace the mixture screw and all the gaskets and o-rings...the motors are 12 years old...have you ever had the carbs rebuilt?

 

[Marty grady 272]

My old boat (252 Sailfish) had twin new 175 Johnson carb motors that would not stay running when operated at docking speed. I was blown around and put up against pilings more times than I can count. I complained to the installing dealer 10 times before he corrected the issue. These motors have an electronic kill circuit for 2 of the cylinders that is supposed to make it easier to shift from forward to reverse and back at low motor rpm's. After the wire to do this was removed and the 2 cylinders kept firing I never had any more problems and the motors shifted just fine. The dealer was very slow in fixing this motor problem as the motors were under warranty. Check to see if your motors have this poor design incorporated in them.

 

[DaleH]

I complained to the installing dealer 10 times before he corrected the issue. These motors have an electronic kill circuit for 2 of the cylinders that is supposed to make it easier to shift from forward to reverse and back at low motor rpm's. After the wire to do this was removed and the 2 cylinders kept firing I never had any more problems and the motors shifted just fine..

:uhm Well, you certainly needed a NEW dealer more than anything, specially after 10 complaints!

1) 175hp OMC motors are twin V-bank motors with 3 cylinders per side

2) When activated that 'kill' switch kills 1 bank of 3 cylinders, the port bank IIRC

3) INCORRECT adjustment of the idle speed and throttle setup can cause the EXACT symptom you describe.

4) When correctly set, this system is fool proof and is designed to (a) reduce wear on the shift dog and (b) prevent 'torque lock'. When properly set ... you won't even feel the engine shift out of gear and only a slight 'bump' as she goes into gear.

IMHO, you got lucky ... your well-qualified mechanic who didn't know how to fix it the 1st time, and thinks there's only 2 cylinders per bank, had your idle RPMs set soooooooo low that it wasn't a problem for you. Only a properly tuned and idle speed set OB one can have issues getting OUT of gear if the shift disconnect switch is deactivated

I have the OEM service manuals for these puppies if anyone else is having issues ...

 

[johnnyboy]

iI just recently had a post with 1999 ox66 issues header, you should review the advice guys gave me for my motors and maybe follow those. I had similar issues at idle and its usually from my experience now either a fuel pump issue or water separator.