Bolster pad removal

Rustygaff

Rustygaff

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Location
Misquamicut, RI & Melrose, CT.
Model
Freedom 255
Does anyone know what type of screws that hold on the bolster pads and whether or not there is a trick to removing them. I am installing a windlass and need to remove an anchor locker hinge. Just my luck the lower hinge screw is behind the bow pad.
 
Rustygaff said:
Does anyone know what type of screws that hold on the bolster pads and whether or not there is a trick to removing them. I am installing a windlass and need to remove an anchor locker hinge. Just my luck the lower hinge screw is behind the bow pad.
Click to expand...
The bolsters are hung on a bracket and then screwed at the bottom. The screws are often inserted into one or more of the grommets on the underside of the bolster. They can be difficult to see. If possible slide a thin piece of metal like a putty knife between the fiberglass and the bolster to see if you can feel where the screws are. when you bump into something look under the bottom. There should be grommet. Now fiddle around with a Philips screwdriver to find the screw head and then remove, after all screws are out push the bolster straight up. A small whack may be needed to slide the bolster off off the brackets
 
seasick said:
Rustygaff said:
Does anyone know what type of screws that hold on the bolster pads and whether or not there is a trick to removing them. I am installing a windlass and need to remove an anchor locker hinge. Just my luck the lower hinge screw is behind the bow pad.
Click to expand...
The bolsters are hung on a bracket and then screwed at the bottom. The screws are often inserted into one or more of the grommets on the underside of the bolster. They can be difficult to see. If possible slide a thin piece of metal like a putty knife between the fiberglass and the bolster to see if you can feel where the screws are. when you bump into something look under the bottom. There should be grommet. Now fiddle around with a Philips screwdriver to find the screw head and then remove, after all screws are out push the bolster straight up. A small whack may be needed to slide the bolster off off the brackets
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up.
 
The section of pad I need to remove is at the "V" section of the bow where it wraps around. There are a few weep hole grommets on the underside but almost no clearance to insert a screwdriver due to the bow seat platform and the way the pad is recessed at the bow tip. Is there a possibility that this particular section is only pressed down onto the brackets? I do not wish to break anything by trying to yank up the pads if in fact they are screwed in. Thanks again for your input.
 
The screws on mine are accessible through the weep holes. You should be able to find the screw by inserting a PH screwdriver through the hole at a 45 deggre angle. When I replace mine, I never replace the screws as the brackets hold them tight enough. if you try sliding them up and they do not move, they are most likely secured with the screws - good luck
 
You should be able to stick a piece of flexible plastic (an old CC, for example) between the bolster and the hull to "feel" for a screw, or not. Sometimes the vinyl of the bolster gets "heat stuck" to the gelcoat, so take that into account and break it free from being stuck. If there are screws there, it means a human being screwed it on... which means another human being can unscrew it. Might have to use a shorty screwdriver or a 90* or something, but it can be done.
 
I finally figured it out and got the pads off. Evidently, I originally visualized the set screws being high up in the pad securing the backing to the bracket. Not the case. The #8 PH set screws are placed 1/2 to an inch above the weep holes at the bottom. To get at the screws, I inserted the screwdriver tip vertically into the hole and then maneuvered the screwdriver into a horizontal position by squeezing the bottom of the pad which moved the weep hole horizontal. I was then able to locate the screw head and pull them out. The set screws were simply screwed through the backing and into the gelcoat. The foam and vinyl cover was mounted to 1/4 molded poly and the backside had cutouts for the bracket hangars.

When I removed the anchor locker hinges, I found the gelcoat cracked underneath. Was kind of disappointed that the factory did not bother to dish out the screw holes with a countersink prior to installing the hardware.
 
I agree. A couple of screws into glass is a less than ideal way to stake the bottom. They really should engineer a better method and expect a customer to remove and replace a number of time throughout the boat lifecycle.
 
You may find that when you reinstall the bolster, it is hard if not impossible to get the screws back into the original holes.
Give it a try but if you can't get it, remove the bolster and fill the old holes with sealant or caulk. I just squeeze a bit of 5200 into the holes.
Then reinstall the bolster and run the screw making a new hole.
Some folks don't replace the screw feeling that the bolster is tight enough and won't move. I don't like that approach; Should someone have to grab on real tight an unsecured bolster might pull up and off. Think of someone trying to climb onboard over a gunnel. Having the screws also makes it harder for someone to 'borrow' the bolsters. Stranger things have happened.
 
Rustygaff said:
When I removed the anchor locker hinges, I found the gelcoat cracked underneath. Was kind of disappointed that the factory did not bother to dish out the screw holes with a countersink prior to installing the hardware.
Click to expand...

As nice as Grady's are, they are still a production boat and that is common place in the industry to save time. I see it all the time on many different manufacturer's. Glad you got it figure out, though!
 
DennisG01 said:
Rustygaff said:
When I removed the anchor locker hinges, I found the gelcoat cracked underneath. Was kind of disappointed that the factory did not bother to dish out the screw holes with a countersink prior to installing the hardware.
Click to expand...

As nice as Grady's are, they are still a production boat and that is common place in the industry to save time. I see it all the time on many different manufacturer's. Glad you got it figure out, though!
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help on this. I appreciate it.
 
Assume you are lucky enough to find how many screws there are, maybe 8-10, then, how do you get the embedded speaker off? Is there enough wire to pull out & unplug?
 
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