What would you folks recommend for buffers? Particular type and perhaps brand. In short who likes what? Thanks
Buffers?
- Thread starter JeffN
- Start date
I know that the porter cable setup is highly recommended in the fiberglass rv world. I personally use a makita buffer but I always make sure to stay around 1200 rpm to avoid burning the finish. Here is a good link to get some information.
http://www.autogeek.net/bupo.html?gclid=CL3Fn6aDopECFSJ1sgodRwaNeQ
http://www.autogeek.net/bupo.html?gclid=CL3Fn6aDopECFSJ1sgodRwaNeQ
I have been using a twenty year old Black & Decker professional grade variable speed unit for the last ten years with great results. Last year it finally failed and will need to replaced in the next few weeks. I will probably try to buy the modern version if they even make it. This was used (and abused) by three family members and a auto shop. It really was a great tool.
I strongly reccomed the variable speed option. I think this was a seven inch version, very heavy duty shaped like an 18" long angle grinder with a wool? buffing wheel.
I strongly reccomed the variable speed option. I think this was a seven inch version, very heavy duty shaped like an 18" long angle grinder with a wool? buffing wheel.
This is what I use and have been for some 12 years now.
http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/ ... 198_192137
Its a beast not to mention heavy but the results are great with the right products and pads. I would not recommend it for someone who has never used one to got to town on your boat. You need to practice on an old car or whatever first. And never ever put pressure on the buffer otherwise kiss the gelcoat godbye but when done correctly nothing else compares.
http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/ ... 198_192137
Its a beast not to mention heavy but the results are great with the right products and pads. I would not recommend it for someone who has never used one to got to town on your boat. You need to practice on an old car or whatever first. And never ever put pressure on the buffer otherwise kiss the gelcoat godbye but when done correctly nothing else compares.
I have the Makita 9227 and have been quite pleased with it. It has a variable speed control(0-3000 rpm). I hit the boat with 3m Finesse-it II and it came out great. The unit is light and easy to use. I think I paid around $170 and that included a couple pads and a carrying bag.
I also have used my friends' Milwaukee. It's heavier than the Makita but feels more powerful. We have concluded that the Milwaukee is better for compounding and the Makita is better for polishing. Good luck!
I also have used my friends' Milwaukee. It's heavier than the Makita but feels more powerful. We have concluded that the Milwaukee is better for compounding and the Makita is better for polishing. Good luck!
All good advice here. The main thing you want is a 'buffer', not a grinder. The difference is speed - a buffer runs around 2500-2750rpm.
I was taught how to detail cars back in the 70's, and have done paintwork and finishing for all these years. The brand is not as critical as just getting a true buffer. The two-handled orbital polishing thing is a waste of money - you may just as well do it by hand.
I have always used a wool buffing pad on a rubber buffing wheel, then polish with a soft polishing 'bonnet'. That's what I 'grew up' with, so that's what I'm used too, and I can get a glass-finish gloss with that process.
Now the new soft foam pads are all the rage, that's what you find in the body shops. The stuff is expensive though, and you have to invest in the whole 'system'.
3M makes outstanding products for cutting and polishing, but the others find favor out there too, such as Meguires, colonite, etc.
Look up a local paint supplier in your area and pay them a visit. They'll help you get the materials you need. I like this company for supplies online: http://www.topoftheline.com Great products, fast shipping, good prices.
Yes, it's a learned skill, best to practice on something not as critical to get the feel. It's actually more difficult on cars because of the hard edges - novices will invariably burn the paint off! Buffing a hull is much easier, except for holding up the machine for several hours - it's a real killer!
I had an aquintance with a restored 41 Cadilac that was painted black and never rubbed out, the paint was several years old. I wet-sanded it with 600 grit, then 1000 and buffed and polished it. He said it looked like he got a new paint job. It went from a basic re-paint finish to glass in a few hours.
I was taught how to detail cars back in the 70's, and have done paintwork and finishing for all these years. The brand is not as critical as just getting a true buffer. The two-handled orbital polishing thing is a waste of money - you may just as well do it by hand.
I have always used a wool buffing pad on a rubber buffing wheel, then polish with a soft polishing 'bonnet'. That's what I 'grew up' with, so that's what I'm used too, and I can get a glass-finish gloss with that process.
Now the new soft foam pads are all the rage, that's what you find in the body shops. The stuff is expensive though, and you have to invest in the whole 'system'.
3M makes outstanding products for cutting and polishing, but the others find favor out there too, such as Meguires, colonite, etc.
Look up a local paint supplier in your area and pay them a visit. They'll help you get the materials you need. I like this company for supplies online: http://www.topoftheline.com Great products, fast shipping, good prices.
Yes, it's a learned skill, best to practice on something not as critical to get the feel. It's actually more difficult on cars because of the hard edges - novices will invariably burn the paint off! Buffing a hull is much easier, except for holding up the machine for several hours - it's a real killer!
I had an aquintance with a restored 41 Cadilac that was painted black and never rubbed out, the paint was several years old. I wet-sanded it with 600 grit, then 1000 and buffed and polished it. He said it looked like he got a new paint job. It went from a basic re-paint finish to glass in a few hours.
Thanks guys. I think I will try to borrow or rent the high speed machine for compunding and buy one of the above mentioned polishers. I think I know just the guy who would have the former 
again thanks for the help.
again thanks for the help.