well, i finally got a chance to fix the window.
The root of the leak has to do with the installation at the factory :evil:
The port window is likely cut out manually and not with a computer controlled machine.
These are the steps i took to fix my port window:
1. i removed the padded shelf on the port side to access the window
2. i removed the inside window trim detail (serves to hide the install clips, etc)
3. unscrewed or "forceably" pulled off the 18 alum. window screw clips; about half came off easily, but the rest which were affected by the water/salt water thru the window leak were seized and i either broke the stainless screw heads off trying to back it out or i had to wrench them off and fix them later).
4. removed window from boat and prepped for re-install (remove old rubber finned gasket material, sanded down small corroded spots on the alum. window frame, re-painted window frame)
5. used grinding attachment on Dremel to remove about 1/4" of F/G material at the top and top right to make the window fit properly. The original cut out made the window fit poorly and when i pulled the window trim off, i could see a hairline thin crack of daylight between the cuddy and the window's right perimeter edge which makes sense why the water and corrosion was on the left side of the window (water comes down, hits the window gap and naturally flows down the low left side)
6. cleaned up the 18 alum clips, replaced all the S/S screws with same size but new screws. Used penetrating oil and good old fashion stubborn elbow grease to remove broken or stuck screws and even drilled and tapped a few where i couldn't get the old seized screw out of the clip (this was the most difficult and pain the azz part. I tried and tried to find replacement clips, but when i couldn't find any i had to re-use and fix the originals).
7. dry fit the window for good fit
8. i used window installer's butyl tape (5/8" wide x 1/16" thick, i love this stuff!) in lieu of the original rubber gasket.
9. placed window in position (butyl tape is sticky so it'll hold the window and allow you to install the clips without having someone else hold the window for you)
9. re-installed clips, trim, and padded port shelf with the curtains (after i cleaned that up, pulled the rusted staples and re-stapled with S/S staples).
10. the clips pulled the window tight against the cuddy and so squeezed a bit of the butyl tape out, so with a razor blade carefully removed the excess tape.
i did not use 4200 or any Si/polyurethane sealant afterwards as the butyl tape will remain flexible and watertight.
Overall difficult is low, but took a good half day (not including overnite paint to dry on the frame).
If you remove the inside window trim and see the similar hairline gap/crack of daylight coming thru, you can do the same as i did for a permanent fix or just add a bead of marine silicone around the top of the window on the outside to cover the gap/crack for a good temporary fix.
