My 275 didn’t come optioned with the factory bow cover and tonneau cover, so it doesn’t have the snaps around the gunnels for the OEM covers. I would like to start covering the boat now that I’m wet slipping it. Should I have AJ make me a set of OEM covers and get a fiberglass shop to install the snaps/buttons (seems risky with a high chance of cracking the gelcoat) or get an aftermarket mooring cover that uses straps or something? Does anyone have experience with adding snaps to a 10 year old boat?
Covers without factory snaps
- Thread starter mr_mbuna
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Is this what you have in mind? The mooring cover gets a lot more complicated if you have a hard top frame to work around.
If I were going to have one made, I would want a local shop to make the cover and install it, including the snaps. Snap studs on the boat first, and snap sockets on the covers to fit the stud pattern.
If I were going to have one made, I would want a local shop to make the cover and install it, including the snaps. Snap studs on the boat first, and snap sockets on the covers to fit the stud pattern.
Find a local shop let then make the covers to your specs. They will make the covers and install the snaps.
PointedRose
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To prevent the gelcoat cracking, it helps to counter sink the hole. Start with a small pilot hole with a smaller bit. Then use the correct size bit for the hole (ideally with a drill guide to get perfectly perpendicular). Then use a much larger bit (like 1/2”) to relieve the hole and countersink to prevent cracking/chipping the gelcoat at the surface. Can also buy countersink bits in various sizes
Yes, I’m in Maryland so I pull the boat out of the water around Thanksgiving and store it on the trailer until Easter.
If you buy a set of covers online, they will not come with the snaps installed in the covers, either. So you'll need the install tool, as well. If you've never done this before it can be quite daunting. Installing onto a 10 year old boat makes no difference - there are no "gotcha's" because of it's age. This is something I do at my shop - although not nearly as often a true canvas shop. The only gotcha is avoiding spider cracking which is done by chamfering the hole with a larger bit so the threads don't contact the gel.
It might be easiest for you to have a local shop make and install the covers.
However, generally, bow/cockpit covers aren't the best for winter storage if there's snow. Snow can build up and tear the cover. You need something "tented" higher to shed the snow.
I had my F285 optioned with the covers but GW missed a few snaps/buttons. My dealer (Tri-State Marine in Deale) was able to add the missing snaps/buttons pretty easily. However, I don't store the boat over winter with the cover, I have it wrapped. The factory covers are not sturdy enough to last more than a couple winters. In fact, mine tore during a bad storm the first year I had it. Tri-State had it fixed and reinforced, but still not something I would rely on during the winter.
I still have nightmares about trying to install trim tabs on my last boat without countersinking the holes. Good to know that Tri-State (also my dealer) is able to do this. I might give them a call.
As many have said, drill pilot hole then chamfer depth beyond gel coat thickness.
As to the cover itself and assuming you’re working with Sunbrella, I use a pencil soldering iron to make the snap hole in the fabric. It sears the threads together similar to the end of a docking line.
As to the cover itself and assuming you’re working with Sunbrella, I use a pencil soldering iron to make the snap hole in the fabric. It sears the threads together similar to the end of a docking line.
PointedRose
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this is an excellent point and will prevent the sunbrella fabric seams/holes from fraying and coming apart by fusing the fabric together at the hole
It can't hurt to use the soldering iron, but honestly, it's a step that isn't needed. Manufacturer's don't do it and I've never done it, nor any of the other guys at the shop. The press-n-snap toll will punch the snap through without having to make a hole, first - and the material will not unravel.
Certainly go ahead and use the soldering iron if one wants - but it's only a "feel good" thing - not something that is needed.
Just mentioning it to help save time
Certainly go ahead and use the soldering iron if one wants - but it's only a "feel good" thing - not something that is needed.
Just mentioning it to help save time
PointedRose
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I see what you’re saying, the hole punch doesn’t tear through seams but rather pushes through and widens a hole through the seams?
You can use either a hole punch, first - or just use the snap. The snap "shaft?" (or whatever it's called) is sharp enough that it works as a hole punch. It cuts through cleanly. The snap will even go through both the Sunbrella and any black, nylon strap being used as reinforcement under the perimeter of the canvas.
You don’t punch holes or snaps through seams, or stitching. As Dennis said, you can make the hole with the barrel of the snap, but you need something like the Hoover Pres-N-Snap to do that. I’ve never tried it with a vice grips snap setter.
Use Dot 24 line stainless steel snaps. There are a lot of fake Dot snaps online, they should have DOT stamped right inside the socket. Fasnap is also good, and is also stamped. Don’t use Lift-the-Dot.
Set your snaps where they are just tight enough that you cannot twist them by hand, but don’t overdo it.
If you do burn your holes, be ready to insert and set the snap immediately, otherwise you can get a clump of molten synthetic, which will prevent you from getting a good, even set if it hardens completely.
Use Dot 24 line stainless steel snaps. There are a lot of fake Dot snaps online, they should have DOT stamped right inside the socket. Fasnap is also good, and is also stamped. Don’t use Lift-the-Dot.
Set your snaps where they are just tight enough that you cannot twist them by hand, but don’t overdo it.
If you do burn your holes, be ready to insert and set the snap immediately, otherwise you can get a clump of molten synthetic, which will prevent you from getting a good, even set if it hardens completely.