Added my back up pump set up today, completely independent. Always have to have a back up venturing offshore.....and at the dock in our absence.
Drilled another hole in the Grady / 2nd bilge
- Thread starter fishbust
- Start date
Looking at your first picture, I'm reminded of a kid's game... "One of these things does not look like the others"! 
Nice Job. I like that you mounted it higher than the primary. I only have one small suggestion - there's a possibility that something in the bilge can get caught underneath the float switch and jam it on, killing your battery. You could either replace it with a caged float, or maybe even build some type of cage around it. Is that black starboard that you used to mount it (with the holes in it)? That could work to create a box. None the less, looks nicely done.
Nice Job. I like that you mounted it higher than the primary. I only have one small suggestion - there's a possibility that something in the bilge can get caught underneath the float switch and jam it on, killing your battery. You could either replace it with a caged float, or maybe even build some type of cage around it. Is that black starboard that you used to mount it (with the holes in it)? That could work to create a box. None the less, looks nicely done.
Thanks Dennis.
Yes, difficult to match a fitting that is 14 years old. LOL. A couple days and it will be forgotten about. Taking that picture reminded me of how many holes are in these fishy boats. Holes all over the place!
Actually 1 by 1 I remove the caged switches. Do not care for them at all. They get nasty inside and more likely to get sticky, versus an open switch cleaned when it needs it. I test all my float switches every trip down to the boat. Sort of OCD about maintaining ability to pump water.
I also maintain very clean bilges, nothing to jam them up.
It took a long time to clean up this Grady below deck. It is amazing how little care so many boats get by their owner.
The forward bilge float switch wires were so rotted they broke off in my hand as soon as I touched them. Complete rewire and new switch there! Some people think turning on the bilge switches from the dashboard equates to a functioning bilge pump system, with no regard for the float switches, which are more important in our absence. To think this boat surveyed with flying colors and "turn key". Amazing, some folks idea of what "turn key" is. A most abused term. So many electrical problems, now all are finally resolved 2 months later.
Well maybe not OCD, just like everything working as it should. I see posts on boards of boats that sunk costing 10's of thousands of dollars and a nightmare when all it could have taken to prevent it was buying 10 hours or so of pump time with a 250 dollar set up wired to a group 27 or group 29 deep cycle battery to cover for the one that failed. It is important that pumps are completely independent in every way, otherwise a single failure could take out everything, defeating the purpose of the redundancy.
Yes the black boards are starboard.
The reason for the height is twofold. 1 - is keeping service in mind. It is easy to reach and can easily be moved out of the way with a couple screws and pulling off the hose. 2 - only for back up, emergency. That is about the height where folks would either be grateful they have an emergency pump there to turn on and take care of the situation, or the height where they wish they did have one there. Peace of mind for me.
Thanks for the input Dennis.
Yes, difficult to match a fitting that is 14 years old. LOL. A couple days and it will be forgotten about. Taking that picture reminded me of how many holes are in these fishy boats. Holes all over the place!
Actually 1 by 1 I remove the caged switches. Do not care for them at all. They get nasty inside and more likely to get sticky, versus an open switch cleaned when it needs it. I test all my float switches every trip down to the boat. Sort of OCD about maintaining ability to pump water.
I also maintain very clean bilges, nothing to jam them up.
It took a long time to clean up this Grady below deck. It is amazing how little care so many boats get by their owner.
The forward bilge float switch wires were so rotted they broke off in my hand as soon as I touched them. Complete rewire and new switch there! Some people think turning on the bilge switches from the dashboard equates to a functioning bilge pump system, with no regard for the float switches, which are more important in our absence. To think this boat surveyed with flying colors and "turn key". Amazing, some folks idea of what "turn key" is. A most abused term. So many electrical problems, now all are finally resolved 2 months later.
Well maybe not OCD, just like everything working as it should. I see posts on boards of boats that sunk costing 10's of thousands of dollars and a nightmare when all it could have taken to prevent it was buying 10 hours or so of pump time with a 250 dollar set up wired to a group 27 or group 29 deep cycle battery to cover for the one that failed. It is important that pumps are completely independent in every way, otherwise a single failure could take out everything, defeating the purpose of the redundancy.
Yes the black boards are starboard.
The reason for the height is twofold. 1 - is keeping service in mind. It is easy to reach and can easily be moved out of the way with a couple screws and pulling off the hose. 2 - only for back up, emergency. That is about the height where folks would either be grateful they have an emergency pump there to turn on and take care of the situation, or the height where they wish they did have one there. Peace of mind for me.
Thanks for the input Dennis.
I like open switches also. I like to reach down and lift the switch last thing after turning the batteries off and leaving the boat.
The thru hull looks really great - I was only referring to fact that it's so new looking. It does look nice.
I understand where you're coming from regarding the cages. In fact, partly because of how you mentioned that many owners never stick their head down there is why I mentioned the cage. But, it certainly sounds like you're on top of things in the bilge and, yes, I would agree with you that a cage isn't necessary.
I just picked up this Grady in the late Fall and while it was decently cared for, it does need some attention. Adding a second bilge is one of those things. My plan is to also make it a "high water" or "emergency" pump. Under most circumstances, there's no need to have two pumps running. I also agree 100% that it should be wired to a separate battery (and make sure to always leave the switch on "off" or it defeats the purpose). Some will say "But, wait, both pumps running might drain both of my batteries and then I don't have any juice left to start the engine." The obvious response is "If your boat sinks, you definitely won't be able to start the engine!"
I understand where you're coming from regarding the cages. In fact, partly because of how you mentioned that many owners never stick their head down there is why I mentioned the cage. But, it certainly sounds like you're on top of things in the bilge and, yes, I would agree with you that a cage isn't necessary.
I just picked up this Grady in the late Fall and while it was decently cared for, it does need some attention. Adding a second bilge is one of those things. My plan is to also make it a "high water" or "emergency" pump. Under most circumstances, there's no need to have two pumps running. I also agree 100% that it should be wired to a separate battery (and make sure to always leave the switch on "off" or it defeats the purpose). Some will say "But, wait, both pumps running might drain both of my batteries and then I don't have any juice left to start the engine." The obvious response is "If your boat sinks, you definitely won't be able to start the engine!"
4 batteries. 1 pump on cranking 1, the other pump on house 1. That leaves 2 batteries in reserve at all times.
I only have cranking batts now because they came with the boat. Temporary. Useless for when it counts. Reserve capacity is what will keep our boats on top of the water instead of under it, when it counts. I always run 4 deep cycle batts in my boats. You can use deep cycle batts for cranking, no problem. But the other way around, the cranking batts will not cut it.
I only have cranking batts now because they came with the boat. Temporary. Useless for when it counts. Reserve capacity is what will keep our boats on top of the water instead of under it, when it counts. I always run 4 deep cycle batts in my boats. You can use deep cycle batts for cranking, no problem. But the other way around, the cranking batts will not cut it.
I put a back up pump in my old, new to me, '89 Sailfish. I used an Ultra Pumpswitch on the backup.
http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param ... itch_infor
Seems like the other types don't last very long and its such a PITA to get in there to change it, I thought it was worth the extra $$ to get it. I have been told they last a LONG time. Anyone have an opinion on them? I also need to put it on some kind of shelf to make it a REAL backup pump but was waiting to get the old speedometer wheel and abandoned trasducer removed and hull patched there which was done this week. Now Im ready to install it correctly! Thanks for the pictures gives me good ideas....
I also added a seperate thru hull but I do have them both on the same battery. Might have to reconsider that, I only have a 2 battery setup and keep the boat on the trailer, but still probably a good idea to isolate them electrically. I also need to put a bilge pump indicator or alarm in, the same company makes a nice loud high water alarm which I can wire to the backup pumpswitch.
1989 Sailfish .... Still modifying it
http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param ... itch_infor
Seems like the other types don't last very long and its such a PITA to get in there to change it, I thought it was worth the extra $$ to get it. I have been told they last a LONG time. Anyone have an opinion on them? I also need to put it on some kind of shelf to make it a REAL backup pump but was waiting to get the old speedometer wheel and abandoned trasducer removed and hull patched there which was done this week. Now Im ready to install it correctly! Thanks for the pictures gives me good ideas....
I also added a seperate thru hull but I do have them both on the same battery. Might have to reconsider that, I only have a 2 battery setup and keep the boat on the trailer, but still probably a good idea to isolate them electrically. I also need to put a bilge pump indicator or alarm in, the same company makes a nice loud high water alarm which I can wire to the backup pumpswitch.
1989 Sailfish .... Still modifying it
Oh, the ultra switches are known as being among the very best and well worth the extra money!
Only reason I do not use them is they do not appear to be easy to test, from what I can see in the pictures available online. I emailed them with no answer.
So, I stuck with what works for me for a few decades, the Rule Super Switches, the mercury free version.
Only reason I do not use them is they do not appear to be easy to test, from what I can see in the pictures available online. I emailed them with no answer.
So, I stuck with what works for me for a few decades, the Rule Super Switches, the mercury free version.