I have a 1983 GW Trophy 25.7 with twin Johnson 200 VRO motors...1989 model. (VRO has been disabled for years). Two things...I'm getting a solid alarm tone from one of the motors. Based on my research, this could mean overheat or fuel restriction. Can someone confirm? (And tell me how to figure out which one it is?) Secondly, I'm trying to find a picture or description of the switch panel, since all of the markings have worn off. Help? Thanks.
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Engine Alarms
- Thread starter jkhawley9
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suzukidave
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jkhawley9 said:I have a 1983 GW Trophy 25.7 with twin Johnson 200 VRO motors...1989 model. (VRO has been disabled for years). Two things...I'm getting a solid alarm tone from one of the motors. Based on my research, this could mean overheat or fuel restriction. Can someone confirm? (And tell me how to figure out which one it is?) Secondly, I'm trying to find a picture or description of the switch panel, since all of the markings have worn off. Help? Thanks.
it can be either. note that a normal engine temp on your gauge is not definitive. ven if you have engine temp gauges for both motors the sensor will only sample one cylinder v block side per motor unless you have four gauges or the gauge is switchable
if the continuous horn is for engine overheat you will not be able to get over 2500 rpm. if it is a fuel flow restriction it likely will sound only when you throttle up.
other easy basic tests...
is the engine peeing water out of the rear of the cowl? if not...
is the fuel primer bulb on your fuel primer hard under way and does it stay hard if you pump it up when motor is not running?
Thanks very much for the info. Most of the gauges on this baby no longer work. The alarm tone did start at higher RPMs, but continued after we pulled back to idle, then it started again a couple of times right after we killed the engine and fired back up. We were able to go past 2500 RPM even with the alarm. I'm leaning toward fuel restriction because we've had a lot of fuel issues. I'll try the tests you suggested and report back. Thanks again!
suzukidave
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that sounds like fuel and a line problem. do not run your motor until you sort this out or you could cook it.
the fuel alarm works off a vacuum switch that is triggered when you exceed a defined vacuum pressure. this could be the lines, fuel pump or the alarm switch itself could be gummed up on an old motor running premix.
start by pumping the primer bulb. if it does not get rock hard and stay that way for five minutes, you have a line leak or obstruction somewhere. point the engine supply side of the bulb up when you prime it. if you can't maintain prime, inspect the fuel lines from the tank to fuel pump for damage (any indent or collapse) or a loose fitting or any failure letting air into the lines. the point where the fuel line enters the cowl is a common point for a failure from fatigue and crimping. if you can't find the problem it is probably a failed bulb or a bad or loose fuel filter. if you do replace the bulb make sure you get an omc/brp bulb or yamaha. the cheaper offbrand ones are not trustworthy on a big outboard and the extra money is worth it.
next check the fuel lines for debris. the inline fuel filters should tell you if this is the issue so inspect them and maybe replace them. there is a white plastic inline filter in the engine bay inside the cowl and the remote spin on canister if you have one. finally disconnect the fuel line at the engine intake and use the primer bulb to pump fuel into a gas can quickly to confirm no line obstruction. if you get anything less than free flow you'll have to remove sections of the line one by one to find it.
if the line primes properly and seem clear, i would test the vacuum switch next. if you have a vacuum gauge you just connect it to the switch inlet line with the ignition on but engine not running and the alarm should sound at around 7 inches of vacuum and then go off quickly when you release the pressure..
if that doesn't work, we can discuss the fuel pump but given the age i will bet on a bad fuel line or stuff in the gas tank.
the fuel alarm works off a vacuum switch that is triggered when you exceed a defined vacuum pressure. this could be the lines, fuel pump or the alarm switch itself could be gummed up on an old motor running premix.
start by pumping the primer bulb. if it does not get rock hard and stay that way for five minutes, you have a line leak or obstruction somewhere. point the engine supply side of the bulb up when you prime it. if you can't maintain prime, inspect the fuel lines from the tank to fuel pump for damage (any indent or collapse) or a loose fitting or any failure letting air into the lines. the point where the fuel line enters the cowl is a common point for a failure from fatigue and crimping. if you can't find the problem it is probably a failed bulb or a bad or loose fuel filter. if you do replace the bulb make sure you get an omc/brp bulb or yamaha. the cheaper offbrand ones are not trustworthy on a big outboard and the extra money is worth it.
next check the fuel lines for debris. the inline fuel filters should tell you if this is the issue so inspect them and maybe replace them. there is a white plastic inline filter in the engine bay inside the cowl and the remote spin on canister if you have one. finally disconnect the fuel line at the engine intake and use the primer bulb to pump fuel into a gas can quickly to confirm no line obstruction. if you get anything less than free flow you'll have to remove sections of the line one by one to find it.
if the line primes properly and seem clear, i would test the vacuum switch next. if you have a vacuum gauge you just connect it to the switch inlet line with the ignition on but engine not running and the alarm should sound at around 7 inches of vacuum and then go off quickly when you release the pressure..
if that doesn't work, we can discuss the fuel pump but given the age i will bet on a bad fuel line or stuff in the gas tank.
THANK you so much. I'll try all this and get it isolated. I'm afraid we know the problem. The fuel filters, particularly the main with the bulb on the bottom, have something that looks like grit. My brother rubbed it between his fingers and it became a greasy paste. Both filters also had what looked like algae on the top layer. I just put 25 gals of fresh fuel in it before we went for the last test run, so I'm afraid this may be a fuel tank crud problem.
Where are you located? I'm in Belhaven, NC. Thanks again for the guidance!
Where are you located? I'm in Belhaven, NC. Thanks again for the guidance!