I was wondering if someone has a secret to make the hull look like new again, get rid of the haze. I have a 1999 Sailfish and I would like to get the fiber glass looking like new. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Fiber glass looking new again....any suggestions???
- Thread starter mdhaley
- Start date
Fiberglass
Hello,
I have a 1997 Marlin that I use the 3M cleaner wax with a wheel. I put one good coat on the hull before the spring launch and my hull still looks as good as new. Except for a few scratches on the starborad aft side from several sharks and a missed gaff shot or two.
Hello,
I have a 1997 Marlin that I use the 3M cleaner wax with a wheel. I put one good coat on the hull before the spring launch and my hull still looks as good as new. Except for a few scratches on the starborad aft side from several sharks and a missed gaff shot or two.
Lainie,
If you don't mind committing to a two step process, I've had good results first using Collinite Fiberglass Boat Cleaner (No. 920) and then following with an application of Collinite Heavy Duty Fleetwax (No 885). I use an orbital buffer to apply the wax. Good luck! awc
If you don't mind committing to a two step process, I've had good results first using Collinite Fiberglass Boat Cleaner (No. 920) and then following with an application of Collinite Heavy Duty Fleetwax (No 885). I use an orbital buffer to apply the wax. Good luck! awc
I like the 3M Marine products .. I use the Marine cleaner/wax on my current boat it does a great job ..., on my last boat I used the 3M heavy Duty (36 Pacemaker) that hull was pretty bad when I bought her .... it was amazing how the 3M brought back the shine ! ..
Good Luck ! Tom
Good Luck ! Tom
When I purchased the 95 Islander three years ago the deck was chalky. After much research I settled on 3M Finesit II. This worked very well in removing the chalkiness and bringing back some shine. I purchased a Harbor Freight variable speed polisher and a foam bonnet from an auto paint/finish store. The $29 polisher still works but I will need to purchase a new bonnet. There are different colored bonets for different agressiveness. The neat thing about the Finesit is that it starts as an abrasive compound but as you work it breaks down into a finer finishing material to bring out a nice shine. You do have to be carefull about keeping it moving as you can burn through the gelcoat. Just keep the speed slow and light pressure. I practiced on my sons 95 toyota just to get the feel and was shocked a the results. It is difficult getting around the hardware, cleats, grab bars, snaps etc. It is also difficult getting into corners. I did the floor and it was a tremendous difference. You can purchase the product at an auto paint store or on the internet. You will need at least a quart which runs about $45 but should do the entire boat.
The Colinite cleaner did not perform satisfactorily on my vessel as I believe the gelcoat was too far oxidized.
Each season the shine improves as I continue to use the Finesit and then wax. (yeah, you do need to wax afterwards to protect your work and prevent more oxidation)
The Colinite cleaner did not perform satisfactorily on my vessel as I believe the gelcoat was too far oxidized.
Each season the shine improves as I continue to use the Finesit and then wax. (yeah, you do need to wax afterwards to protect your work and prevent more oxidation)
here is where I get it http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/4,30429.html
all by hand, 3m , then 3 coats of wax, learn to drink with your other hand, and learn to wax with both.
better yet, buy the drinks and,learn to drink with both hands, and teach new boating friends how to wax with both hands and both feet.
good luck :wink:
all by hand, 3m , then 3 coats of wax, learn to drink with your other hand, and learn to wax with both.
better yet, buy the drinks and,learn to drink with both hands, and teach new boating friends how to wax with both hands and both feet.
good luck :wink:
Depending on the condition of the glass, you will need either fiberglass polish or fiberglass compound. Don't use auto stuff.
You may need to use compound followed by polish and then wax.
My buddies and I swear by Garry's wax. The finish looks great and lasts a long time. We buy the wax by the gallon
One season I used the Starbrite(?) wax with the teflon in it. It was terrible
You may need to use compound followed by polish and then wax.
My buddies and I swear by Garry's wax. The finish looks great and lasts a long time. We buy the wax by the gallon
One season I used the Starbrite(?) wax with the teflon in it. It was terrible
+1 on 3M products, the finess-it polish is outstanding. Get a marine grade synthetic wax to seal it.
Good products from topofthelinedetail.com or visit your local auto paint jobber.
Gradys have a very thick gel coat and can stand a lot of polishing before wearing thru. Even an older hull can be buffed out to a good gloss. Yes, you need a wool buffer wheel, or one of the new foam systems if you want to go hi-tech.
Good products from topofthelinedetail.com or visit your local auto paint jobber.
Gradys have a very thick gel coat and can stand a lot of polishing before wearing thru. Even an older hull can be buffed out to a good gloss. Yes, you need a wool buffer wheel, or one of the new foam systems if you want to go hi-tech.
The reason it looks old is 1 of 2 things.....lack of wax and cleaning, too much cleaning, or wax was not taken off before you put new wax on.
Each season you should remove the old wax before you rewax the boat, old wax will yellow over time and as layers build up will haze. If you use household washes it will take wax off very quickly and leave bare gel coat to break down over time making fixing the hazing harder and requiring more work if it isn;t too late already. No wax is not good eaither, see a lot of guys put boats in and not properly protect the gelcoat, every 6 months as a min you need to rewax, you typically can tell when wax has worn off, even using a wash with wax in it or a cheap spray on wipe off wax mid season is better then nothing.
At this point you need to sue 3M products, probably need a rubbing compoubnd to get the haze off, a fiberglass restorter, then finesse it II to get rid of the swirls from the previous work, and then a good waxing, maybe 2 coats. Other option is use colinite 920 hull cleaner and then use a good wax over top. I have a 1989, used 4 seasons trewax each spring and colinite 920 every fall and hull looks brand new with a great shine, always used boat soaps and waxed mid season or as needed, no harsh chemicals or household cleaners, soft scrub or dish detergents are hell on boats, keep them at home if you want any gel coat left on your boat after 10-15 years.
Each season you should remove the old wax before you rewax the boat, old wax will yellow over time and as layers build up will haze. If you use household washes it will take wax off very quickly and leave bare gel coat to break down over time making fixing the hazing harder and requiring more work if it isn;t too late already. No wax is not good eaither, see a lot of guys put boats in and not properly protect the gelcoat, every 6 months as a min you need to rewax, you typically can tell when wax has worn off, even using a wash with wax in it or a cheap spray on wipe off wax mid season is better then nothing.
At this point you need to sue 3M products, probably need a rubbing compoubnd to get the haze off, a fiberglass restorter, then finesse it II to get rid of the swirls from the previous work, and then a good waxing, maybe 2 coats. Other option is use colinite 920 hull cleaner and then use a good wax over top. I have a 1989, used 4 seasons trewax each spring and colinite 920 every fall and hull looks brand new with a great shine, always used boat soaps and waxed mid season or as needed, no harsh chemicals or household cleaners, soft scrub or dish detergents are hell on boats, keep them at home if you want any gel coat left on your boat after 10-15 years.