For some reason when I attach the lower unit ears to my hose I don't get any water coming out of the pee hole. But when the boat is in the waterit "pees" just fine. Is that because there is not a tight seal on the ears? Also is that hose arrangement directional or does the water pump suck water from either direction?
Flush ears on lower unit
- Thread starter cobrapowersys
- Start date
Depending on your water pressure AND flow rate, you may not see the pee stream until you start the motor. When you start it, it may take a few seconds to pee.cobrapowersys said:
Thanks seasick. I know when I hook the flush hose up it pees fine too. It it a good Idea to use that in lieu of the muffs? Just so I can fog the engine?
You should NOT run that motor on the flush port, only on the muffs. If you use muffs and you don't see the pee stream withing 10 to 15 seconds, shut off the motor.cobrapowersys said:
I don't fog mu motor using the intakes and the motor running. I remove all the plugs and spray a good dose of fogging oil directly into the cylinders. I then manually rotate the crankshaft to distribute the oil. You can easily pop off the plastic shroud over the flywheel to gain access to turn it. With the plugs removed, the flywheel can be easily rotated.
After rotating the flywheel a turn and a half. I refog the cylinders, rotate another turn and then reinstall the plugs. In the spring, I start the motor on the old plugs and burn off the fogging oil. After warming up and making sure all is well, I then replace the plugs as well as main filter and engine filter (every three seasons or so for me).
The reason that you turn the flywheel 1 and 1/2 turns, is that any pistons that were up during the first fogging will now be down for the second fogging.
Some folks prefer to remove the intake silencer and spray directly into the throttle bodies. I don't. I get a better cylinder wall coverage by my method and although the fogging oil does not get into the throttles, that hasn't been an issue for me. In addition, I am not getting a lot of fogging oil and combustion gunk into my O2 sensor. ( at least not until spring when the oil burns off
"When driven by guilt.cobrapowersys said:
By that I mean that I change every 4 or 5 seasons. I don't boat in shallow sandy areas so I am not sucking a lot of sand or grit. If you don't know how fast your impeller and housing are wearing and your pee stream still looks strong, I would do the first after three seasons. You will be able to tell if it has excessive wear and may need to changed more frequently or less frequently.
If you notice that the pee stream is taking longer to start after starting the motor, then it may be time to change the pump. If the pee stream starts normally and looks strong but you overheat at low speed but not at high, you most likely need to service/replace the poppet valve, not the water pump.
Mine will not "pee" either on muffs, a little sprays out the exhaust but that's it. I only run the motors 5 seconds or so basically just to get them running after their slumber.
I do the pumps every other year. I can probably push it further but the motors are fairly old and I want to be sure they stay cool.
I do the pumps every other year. I can probably push it further but the motors are fairly old and I want to be sure they stay cool.
Almost important as changing the water pump is to change the thermostats, I try to replace them every every 5 years , but I started removing the lower units every year just to lube the shaft and bolts.
Good marine grease on the shaft and a coating of anti-seize on the bolts and you can lengthen your maintenance interval. For me, removing and reconnecting the speedo water tube is the biggest pain.freddy063 said:
you dont need to fogg from intake . actually just connect your engine to a 1 or 2 gal external fuel can with some 50/1 oil mix also some fuel stabalize, you will get double the oil and that should coat everything inside real nice. Then just do what seasick said and spray the cylinders and rotate by hand. You should change your water impellar every 2 seasons, unless you know you suck up allot of sand, then I would do it every season anyway. 40$ kit much cheaper than a 6k engine rebuild.