Flush mounting electronics

[Fishshoreman]

My boat doesn't have the flush mount electronics option. I was wondering if anyone had installed the kit after delivery? Is it still available? I am thinking of making my own installation but if there is something available from the dealer at a reasonable price it may be easier.

My intentions are to install new electronics next year. My employer is a Garmin dealer and as an employee I receive equipment at dealer cost which is very significant. I bought my neighbor a 5212, 4210, HD radar, 2 VHF100s, and the sonar box and saved him almost 5 grand. Currently my boat has Furuno electronics and they work excellent so I have time to fabricate a flush mount kit if I can't buy one from the dealer.

Thanks in advance for your answers,

 

[Grouper Duper]

I have the same boat, and looked at the same options. I didn't like how tough it was to fit larger plotters inside the box, so I had my guy eliminate the doors altogether and make a new flush-mount panel. I could have chosen Seafoam color Starboard to match the gelcoat, but decided on the black instead. The 4212 looks great, and I kept the original Furuno.

 

[Fishshoreman]

I agree, it does look great! How thick is the panel and how did you attach the panel to the "box". Currently I have a 582L sounder and the 1850D plotter bracket mounted in the dash box. I can get the Garmin 5212 for less than the list price of the 4212 so I am thinking of going that route if I can skim some cash from the wife :wink:

 

[Grouper Duper]

I believe the panel is 3/8", though I can't remember for sure. There's already a "lip" around the outer edge of the compartment since the original doors are recessed in there, so the new panel fits into that and is about the same thickness.

However, he did trim out most of the tapered walls that are were just inside that (for easier access and more clearance). The walls I'm talking about are the sides that go in an inch or two and are where the factory-option flush-mount would mount. They taper inwards, and just didn't leave enough room to put a 12" in there, so that's why we opted for the custom setup. I didn't see what he added to anchor the four screws at the corners, but I assume it was small blocks or tabs, then it was finished off with sealer.

I went back and forth between the 4212 and 5212, but settled on the 42 to same a grand or so and put it elsewhere (you have a good enough deal not to need that!). If you add a new transducer like I did too, make sure it's very close to the keel. They first put mine one stringer over, and it was picking up bubbles all the time and lost bottom contact at about 15 knots. We had to patch the hole (arghhhh!) and move it inboard; now it picks up the bottom clearly at nearly wide open throttle.

I love this setup overall.

Good luck!

 

[Gary M]

We took the doors off (2001 Marlin), carefully made a template that matched the face of the entire cabinet itself, then had a custom plastic shop cut the new panel from black plastic as you can see above. We cut the holes for the two boxes ourselves, but if you use a stiff/hard plastic be careful when you cut it. We also were able to "enlarge" the original opening since the new panel covered the entire face of the original cabinet.

My Marine Electrician stays away from using Starboard as he's sometimes seen it discolor from the sunlight..... Just his .02 from many years of this......

 

[Fishshoreman]

Excellent guys, thanks for the tips. We do a lot of installations with Garmin products on our helicopters so I will be fabricating the faceplate and wiring the electronics. I am hoping to do the fabrication through the summer at home on the bench so come next winter I can just modify the console and slide the units in. Thanks again for the info.