Fuel Tanks 265 Express

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TUNAHUNTER197

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Hey guys! I'm looking for a little advice from those that have accomplished pulling their fuel tanks out of their 265 Express. I have a 2000, and would like to pull them and get them pressure checked and while they are out clean the bilge underneath them. It looks like a fairly easy project, and I have access to a fork lift to remove them. Once I remove the wood across the tanks and the white blocks holding the tanks down do they just slide out and up? Can anyone confirm if Grady used 5200 to hold the tanks to the stringers? The aluminum tanks look original and are in great shape (No sighs of salt water intrusion), but just want to make sure there are no leaks anywhere. Thanks for any advice you guys can provide!
 
TUNAHUNTER197 said:
Hey guys! I'm looking for a little advice from those that have accomplished pulling their fuel tanks out of their 265 Express. I have a 2000, and would like to pull them and get them pressure checked and while they are out clean the bilge underneath them. It looks like a fairly easy project, and I have access to a fork lift to remove them. Once I remove the wood across the tanks and the white blocks holding the tanks down do they just slide out and up? Can anyone confirm if Grady used 5200 to hold the tanks to the stringers? The aluminum tanks look original and are in great shape (No sighs of salt water intrusion), but just want to make sure there are no leaks anywhere. Thanks for any advice you guys can provide!
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Pressure testing is a lot more accurate than visual inspection especially for pin holes. Of course the spot where corrosion is common is where the tank sits on the stringers (with a rubber strip in between. If the tanks are foamed in, it is not easy to remove them and unless I suspected a leak and a replacement, I wouldn't advise removing them. More likely, you should plan on replacing all the fuel lines, fill, vent, pickup etc. That job in itself may make you nuts.
It is also possible to pressure test the tanks in place. No more than 3 psi or you risk distorting the tank. Of course a lot depends on how the tanks were maintained or abused but 2000 tanks should be fine based on what I have seen .Forward bilge water should flow through a pipe and not directly into the tank compartment. That reduces the possibility of corrosion.
One other point to look into. Even very small gas leaks create the smell of gas fumes in the bilge. Often, your nose is the best tool to use. Pop the access plate and take a sniff.

By the way, my owners manual from Grady recommends rinsing the tank's outside and compartment with fresh water on a routine basis? How many folks do that?
 
Great advice! I will work on them this weekend. I mean the tanks looks great, but filled the main to the max last weekend, and had a fuel smell throughout the day. I don't think the fuel sending gasket was sitting correctly and could have leaked out some fuel being filled to the max, and there was a light (small amount) sheen of gas when I pumped my aft bilge. I'll purchase a new gasket and give it a try this weekend. I'll inspect while I have someone pump the gas to see if there are any fuel leaks from the hoses. Thanks again, and great advice.
 
most people thoroughly seal the fuel tank coffin hatch cover with silicone caulk so salt water cannot get in. the option of rinsing annually requires resealing annually which requires removal of the old silicone residue. quite a pita. i would only do it if i opened the inspection plates and found evidence the seal had failed.

the tanks may be a very tight fit to remove and may need to be tilted out one end at a time. measure to see. if you do go to the trouble of removing them i would paint them with coal tar epoxy before reinstalling. it won't take long to prep and apply and it will be a lot cheaper than new tanks.

fyi, until the switch to fibreglass tanks, gas stations used coal tar epoxy coatings to squeeze a few years out of steel underground gas tanks. a coating (applied from the inside) was guaranteed by the installer for 10 years on steel tanks even if pin holes had appeared. they would cut a hole in the top of a tank, climb in and apply epoxy while wearing a respirator. great job.
 
TUNAHUNTER197 said:
Great advice! I will work on them this weekend. I mean the tanks looks great, but filled the main to the max last weekend, and had a fuel smell throughout the day. I don't think the fuel sending gasket was sitting correctly and could have leaked out some fuel being filled to the max, and there was a light (small amount) sheen of gas when I pumped my aft bilge. I'll purchase a new gasket and give it a try this weekend. I'll inspect while I have someone pump the gas to see if there are any fuel leaks from the hoses. Thanks again, and great advice.
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Even without a full tank, it is common for the sender area to be fully 'covered' by gas since under many conditions, the tank is sitting at an angle usually tilted towards aft. Since you stated that you really filled the tank and then smelled gas as well as saw a sheen, I would take a good look at the fill and vent hoses/connections first. That would include checking the connections at the fill and vent hull fittings.
If you decide to replace the sender gasket, make sure that the tank is not full or near full or fuel will spill out. Half a tank or less is a good place to be. The sender screws should not be over tightened as that can distort the flange. You should not need any sealant if all was done correctly before but if the flange is corroded or you suspect that a nice tight seal isn't possible unless you use a sealant make sure that you get a sealant that specifically says it is compatible with gasoline.
Good luck
 
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