Grady White Seafarer 228 Bennet Trim Tabs Not working

Zeebr00k

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They were working a month ago now not. I understand there is a Fuse Block.jpgBennetSwitch.jpg20 amp fuse somewhere, do you know if its under the steering column? I took pictures of the block under there and the back of the switch.
Any help would be appreciated.
 

Ky Grady

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Follow your wires from switch and see where they terminate. The pic of your fuse panel has the 20 amp and looks like a 5 amp with no wires attached, did your tabs get unplugged? Has the end corroded off? My switch died while troubleshooting my tabs, could be a bad switch.

What year Seafarer?
 

Zeebr00k

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Hi,Thanks for your response Ky Grady. Ita a 2000 228. yes its a 5 amp and a 20 amp with no wires attached. Ill try to trace the wires.
 

glacierbaze

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R.I.P. Tabman

How old is the system and on what type of boat?

Take a look at step 3 (and step 6 if it's an older system) try it right behind the switch and directly at the pump and let me know what you find.

Also check both ends of the ground wire at the pump.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

Fluid: Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) any type. Hydraulic Power Unit is self bleeding, running the Trim Tabs up and down 3-4 times will purge air from the system.

Fuse: 12 volt system use 20 amp in-line fuse on positive. (24v & 32v use proportionately smaller)

Red= Port Valve
Green= Starboard Valve
Blue=Motor Forward (pump pressure)
Yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract)
Black on HPU=Ground
Orange on Helm=Control Positive

Troubleshooting

1.If one side is not operating reverse hydraulic lines on the front of the Hydraulic Power Unit to determine if the malfunction is in HPU or actuator / hydraulic lines. If after reversing the lines symptom shifts to the other side the malfunction may exist in HPU. If the symptom remains on the same side, malfunction may exist with the actuator / hydraulic lines

2. Is the unit receiving a solid 12 volts? Low voltage will some times cause the solenoids to not open preventing the tabs from moving even though the pump motor is running.

3. Conduct the following test:
Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:
Operation=Reaction
Orange (+), blue, red= Port trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, green=Starboard trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, red, green= Both trim tabs down
Orange (+), yellow, red= Port trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, green=Starboard trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, red, green= Both trim tabs up

If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on the back of the switch (whether a wire is connected there or not) can cause the pump to malfunction.

This test may also be done right at the pump by substituting a "hot lead" for orange. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires.

4. If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.

5. If you conclude the problem is in the pump, contact me. Bennett Trim Tab Systems carry a five year warranty.

6. Check to see if there is a relay in line on the wiring harness near the hydraulic power unit. If there is it is an Interrupter Relay (IR1000). It prevents the system fuse from blowing if you try to actuate one trim tab up and the other down at the same time. After you test as outlined above, try removing the relay from the wiring harness and retest the unit.(Note: the interrupter relay is no longer used in current Bennett Trim Tab systems and has been replaced with a Switches that "lock out" preventing a blown fuse).


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Ky Grady

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Thanks glacier!!! I miss Tom's insight on tab problems. R.I.P. Tom.
 

Zeebr00k

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Thanks for responding Glazierbaze, This is a 2000 Grady White 228, I've owned it for about 6 months. Both trim tabs stopped working with no pump noise when activated. the orange wire coming from the switch has an inline fuse with the glass fuse and doesn't look to be burned out. The inline fuse is terminated into the fuse block (see attached picture below) the red box shows there the orange wire terminates.
To perform the tests you suggested I will run new temporary wires from the battery.