How much bottom paint......

I'm not sure what the process is. I just ordered a gallon of paint, because West had it on clearance for $33. That's my starting point, never had a painted bottom, but hope to be in the slip more this year.

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It is very important to follow the instructions not just for the painting but for the prep work. If you do not follow the steps for prep, you probably will have failures with the bottom paint.
Take a look at the Pettit site
and then at the How To tab. Lots of good info and how-tos on the site
 
It's also very important to see what bottom paint works for your area. Not all bottom paint works in all waters. You should check with others in your marina to see what everyone is using. I use Micron CSC. I used Micron CF once, and had horrible results. Saving a few dollars can add up to $$$$$ to correct in the future. Also, I would recommend applying a barrier coat to the bottom. The Bottom prep is critical to the application and final outcome.
 
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Like I said, it's a starting point, and I will have the work done by an experienced shop. I may end up with a different paint, but I figured $33 was low risk, and I can re-sell if it's not what I need. The status is now back-ordered at West, so I may never see it anyway.
 
Read up on it. It would be a mistake to just use anti-fouling paint.
https://www.westmarine.com/west-advisor/Epoxy-Barrier-Coats.html

If you have bare gelcoat now and you are going to put the boat in the water for weeks or months at a time, you should FIRST use an epoxy barrier (usually 3 coats) and then 2 (or 3) coats of ablative anti-fouling. After that, typically you can recoat ech season with one coat.

Epoxy barrier is a 2 part paint. timing and weather dependant. The hull needs to be DRY. The weather needs to be warm & DRY.
It not cheap.

Interlux or Pettit or TotalBoat
 
Many shops won't use customer supplied paint. If they do, keep in mind that if the paint fails, in any way, you can't go back to them to remedy it. If you let them use what they know will work and the paint fails/chips off/etc, they "should" take care of it.
 
Gallon will do it. Get a good multi season ablative paint as you will have enough to touch up next year. Best to talk with folks in your area on which to use. Some formulations are better than others in areas.
 
Tips... Have the seller shake it well. If you don't apply right away go to a paint store and have them do it on your way to the boat. Get a bunny suit and latex gloves at HD if you don't have one. Makes clean up a lot easier. I use a face shield when on the creeper under the boat.
 
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Used 2 gallons for 3 coats on my Gulfstream. Don’t recall the brand, but it was the heaviest copper load legally allowed.
 
SkunkBoat said:
Read up on it. It would be a mistake to just use anti-fouling paint.
https://www.westmarine.com/west-advisor/Epoxy-Barrier-Coats.html

If you have bare gelcoat now and you are going to put the boat in the water for weeks or months at a time, you should FIRST use an epoxy barrier (usually 3 coats) and then 2 (or 3) coats of ablative anti-fouling. After that, typically you can recoat ech season with one coat.

Epoxy barrier is a 2 part paint. timing and weather dependant. The hull needs to be DRY. The weather needs to be warm & DRY.
It not cheap.

Interlux or Pettit or TotalBoat
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Fishtales said:
Tips... Have the seller shake it well. If you don't apply right away go to a paint store and have them do it on your way to the boat. Get a bunny suit and latex gloves at HD if you don't have one. Makes clean up a lot easier. I use a face shield when on the creeper under the boat.
Click to expand...
In my experience, shaking at the store is not enough. You need to really stir before use AND during use. Stirring doesn't mean a stick. It means a paint mixing attachment on a drill..

The solids at least on water based bottoms paints settle out quickly
 
I have it shaken, tip upside down to the drive to the boat. I'd always stir but if you shake it just before you use it, you will be more than fine. No drill needed unless the stuff has been sitting for a month or more. No matter, stirring something that was just shaken is far easier than the drill exercise.
 
seasick said:
In my experience, shaking at the store is not enough. You need to really stir before use AND during use. Stirring doesn't mean a stick. It means a paint mixing attachment on a drill..

The solids at least on water based bottoms paints settle out quickly
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^^^^^^This x 1,000. I purchased a drill paint stir attachment and the amount of paint on the can bottom is unbelievable, and this after the marina put it on their machine. I also stir during the painting process. I keep the can in a box so the drips do not spill on the ground.
 
D.D. said:
^^^^^^This x 1,000. I purchased a drill paint stir attachment and the amount of paint on the can bottom is unbelievable, and this after the marina put it on their machine. I also stir during the painting process. I keep the can in a box so the drips do not spill on the ground.
Click to expand...
If you read the instructions, they usually make it clear that vigorous stirring and re-stirring are advised:)
 
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