Hull repair, paint & trailer adjustment questions

timo14

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Cool... thanks CD.

I've been looking at pictures of boats on trailers alot in the past couple of days. Just about every boat on a roller trailer has the center rollers right at the keel... just like mine is set up now. Is there something I'm missing? Just for stability alone, it makes sense to move them out.
 

timo14

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cdwood said:
Wil get pics to you tonite.

Got em.... thanks a million! Pictures are indeed worth a 1,000 words. Your trailer is set up exactly the way I was thinking of doing mine, so, I guess it works.

Again... Thank You.
 

cdwood

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Pushing the rollers out to where they are now lowered the boat by 4 inches or more, trailers beautifully behind my old Tahoe.
 

gw204

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I bet you could move the rear most crossmember back instead of moving the axles forward. Secure it using the bolts running through the frame that hold on your tail light brackets.
 

timo14

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gw204 said:
I bet you could move the rear most crossmember back instead of moving the axles forward. Secure it using the bolts running through the frame that hold on your tail light brackets.

I was thinking of drilling another hole in the frame rails and moving the rear cross-member back till the rollers are where they should be. Still havent ruled that out.

Moving the member back to the hole at the light bracket is about 16"... which is almost double than i need to go.

If i do either of these... the tongue weight will still stay the same (more or less), right? I'll still have to move the axles up to decrease the tongue weight. However, if i move the rear x-member back, I wont have to move the axles up as far (cause I wont have to make up for moving the boat).

Capture.jpg
 

gw204

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I would try to use the holes that are already there. Drilling a new one will expose new metal that doesn't have the galvanizing on it. You can spray cold galvanize on the area, but that stuff doesn't hold up and you'll have rust in no time.

Anyway, here's what I would do...

1. Move the crossmember back to the existing hole and reposition the boat and winch stand as necessary.
2. Ditch those side guides unless you really, really need them.
3. Slide the axles BACK in 2" to 3" increments to set your tongue weight. I think you'll find that moving the boat back the full 16" will make your tongue weigh way too light. Minor axle position adjustments can have major affects on tongue weight. I bet you don't need to go more than 6" back.

Make sense? No guarantees, but that is how I would go about it. :)
 

gw204

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timo14 said:
You're right... partially. The front sets of rollers are adjustable, but they're maxed out. The rear rollers (where the aluminum beam is straight, not bent) are one piece.

BTW - sorry 'bout the mis info. I was only looking at the front rollers.
 

timo14

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gw204 said:
I would try to use the holes that are already there. Drilling a new one will expose new metal that doesn't have the galvanizing on it. You can spray cold galvanize on the area, but that stuff doesn't hold up and you'll have rust in no time.

Anyway, here's what I would do...

1. Move the crossmember back to the existing hole and reposition the boat and winch stand as necessary.
2. Ditch those side guides unless you really, really need them.
3. Slide the axles BACK in 2" to 3" increments to set your tongue weight. I think you'll find that moving the boat back the full 16" will make your tongue weigh way too light. Minor axle position adjustments can have major affects on tongue weight. I bet you don't need to go more than 6" back.

Make sense? No guarantees, but that is how I would go about it. :)

I've been staring at photo's of my rig... I think I'm going to do exactly what you're recommending. What you're suggesting is pretty easy too, I'll only have to raise the boat at the transom to make the adjustments... instead of pulling the boat completely. I'll probably just move the x-member first, then re-weigh the tongue without moving the axles. With plenty of luck, maybe I wont even have to screw around with the axles.

I do want to ditch the guides too... they mark the hull. I used them to keep me straight... but have since realized that I just need to move the rollers out to miss the strakes.

One thing I was also trying to do was get the transom closer to the tie-down lugs. I ratchet strap the transom eye's down to the lugs... right now they are on a pretty good angle relative to the transom. If I move the boat back, they will be at more of an angle. I guess that it's not that big of a deal though, as long as they hold the transom down. Maybe I'll add another strap at the bow, angled back to the trailer, to counteract the straps at the rear.

Thanks for your help/clarity.

Tim
 

gw204

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Prior to doing anything, make sure you slide the boat back far enough so that once you move the rollers they are still under the boat. You can easily fine tune the final position once the major work is done.

Keep it hitched to your truck the whole time too.
 

cdwood

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Timo, check the pic I sent you, would an extension for the rear rollers be an option. If so, that would bring you very close to my set up. also you don't need the rear rollers to be right under the transom, just close.
 

timo14

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CD... I've been looking at the pics you sent me quite a bit. I think my final arrangement is going to be very similar to your trailer. I'm shooting for getting my rollers to within a couple of inches of the transom.

Brian... keep trailer hooked to truck... got it! Just had a daydream of my beloved 225 lower unit smashed into the concrete!

I picked up some Interlux 299 stripper this afternoon. I'm going to start experimenting with it this week. Unfortunately, I have to work both jobs this week... nothing like a good old 60+ hour work week to get you in shape for sanding a hull! I'm planning to pick the boat off the trailer and start all the fun stuff on Saturday.

Thanks again to all of you for the advice.
Tim
 

cdwood

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As far as the straps go I prefer to just throw one over the gunnels and attach to trailer just behind rear trailer wheel.